THE EAST AFRICAN SERIES, DAY 7
Welcome to Day 7 of the East African Series, a raw, unfiltered look at travelling deep into the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo). This entry covers the journey from Goma to Masisi, including a stop at the Nyiragongo lava rock fields and an overnight stay at Rica Lodge Malaika.
Goma – Masisi
Deep into the DRC. I thought I knew the meaning that anything can happen in Africa, but waking up this morning to the sound of the boat hitting another at Goma port just gave this thing a whole new level.
MAHZUNGO MAHZUNGO
This was on top of seeing another boat do the same thing at Bukavu, literally just to move it out of the way. Compounded with sleeping on top of the engine and the noise of the toilet door that got slammed at every use, but I could hardly complain with an entire room to myself. If it’s good enough for the general’s wife, then it’s good enough for me.
WHERE IS MASISI?
Masisi
RUBBISH
There are many countries which don’t take the issue of rubbish seriously, and the DRC is another example. The guy who came in to clean immediately left the room and threw any rubbish I had left over onto the balcony! If I’d known, I would have carried it all until I got home.
DAILY INFO… DAY 7
- HOTEL – Rica Lodge Malaika
- FOOD – Half a chicken and chips that took 2.5 hours
- ATTRACTIONS –
Cheese making process
Local village and football pitch - STEPS – 15,700
- MILES COVERED – 48.9 miles
NYIRAGONGO
Mount Nyiragongo is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, situated just north of Goma in the eastern DRC. Its crater contains the largest lava lake on Earth. Though usually erupting in slow flows, its 2021 eruption caught thousands off guard and remains one of the DRC’s most significant recent natural disasters.
We took a quick detour to see some of the effects of the eruption and was something completely new to me.
Around 12 months ago, Mt Nyiragongo erupted and took out much of the surrounding area. It’s continually active but erupts at such a slow speed that it causes no problems. However, the eruption in 2021 devastated the area. Around 50 people died, and thousands were displaced, and a year on, they are still struggling from the impact.
Believe it or not, the majority of deaths were caused by car accidents from the ensuing evacuation.
LAVA ROCK
The lava rock fields left by Nyiragongo’s 2021 eruption stretch across what were once residential areas south of Goma. Walking across the hardened lava rock is a surreal and sobering experience—a landscape that looks otherworldly but was, not long ago, someone’s home.
In one way, it’s interesting to see the after effects, but then you soon remind yourself that this was the home of many people. Again, we got asked for money, and a local said this very spot was his home, but how can one prove this… it is truly a sad place.
THE UN
There are thousands and thousands of UN peacekeepers within eastern DRC due to the number of armed rebels, but the size of some of these compounds is incredible, it is like something out of a Middle Eastern war movie.
Passing by the main airport, I got another shock. The number of people who appeared to be living on the airport grounds beside derelict planes was incredible. Whether or not this is a different section of the airport, I don’t know.
RELATED READ: HOW TO SURVIVE LONG HAUL FLIGHTS
LOCALS
After visiting probably the best supermarket in the DRC, we made our way to Masisi, which would take 2-3 hours on some of the worst roads of the trip. Believe it or not only 2% of roads on the DRC are paved.
Missing the hotel, we continued really deep into Masisi, and you could tell immediately you were in a different place as every single local would stare at the jeep, and then you would see the shock on their faces once they spotted the white man. I wish I could have recorded it just to show you, but it was impossible to capture.
RICA LODGE MALAIKA
Rica Lodge Malaika is a surprisingly upscale lodge situated in Masisi territory, eastern DRC. It offers comfortable accommodation, a restaurant, and lush grounds, a genuine oasis that most travellers would never expect to find this deep in the DRC. It’s one of the very few quality guesthouses in the region.
I did wonder for most of the journey where I would be staying, what type of accommodation? Surely it had to be a home stay, there cannot be any hotels out here.
But turning into the hotel, I was absolutely gobsmacked at it. It was one of the nicest places I have stayed during my trip and a huge contrast to what’s going on outside the gates. I felt properly guilty.
LOCAL FOOTBALL
After we made our way to the local pitch and just missed the last of the football. However once any locals realised a white boy was there they all soon sprinted over.
It’s actually highly amusing, most locals tend to run over and stand in front of you and just stare, there could be 20 of them just all very curious. It would be a little less awkward if I could speak their language instead of having a staring competition.
Some can be outspoken but soon shy away when you go and talk to them and then get laughed at by their peers.
Deep into the DRC
MAHZUNGO
White people are called Mahzungo. I have no idea what the true meaning is or if it is just an exact translation, but they will literally call it to your face. If you are driving past, they will often call out to you.
After walking to the nearby village, they were out in their droves and quite sad how some people are just so isolated, not to mention the condition in which they live.
The DRC is full of natural resources, and most of the minerals used to make electronics can be found here. However, the money never makes it past the very few at the top, and people are often left to fight for themselves. Having people who sleep in mud huts come up to you and ask for money while you sit in the comfort of your jeep made me feel very queasy.
The Cheese-Making Process
One of the more unexpected highlights near Rica Lodge Malaika is a local artisan cheese-making operation.
The Masisi highlands produce quality milk from highland cattle, and local farmers have developed a small-scale cheese industry, a rare economic bright spot in an area of the DRC otherwise defined by hardship.
Deep into the DRC
SUMMED UP….
- MVP – The curious locals
- LVP – The chef at the hotel 😭
- HIGHLIGHT – Seeing the locals
- LOWLIGHT – The roads
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective, and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube videos below.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I actually thought I had seen it all, but far, far from it. The DRC is turning into quite the lesson to show me how lucky I am.
If you’re considering travel to the DRC, eastern Congo remains one of the most challenging yet most eye-opening destinations on the continent.
From the Nyiragongo lava rock fields outside Goma, to the isolation of Masisi and the surprising comfort of Rica Lodge Malaika, a journey deep into the DRC will reshape your perspective in ways that few other places can.
Just pack patience and expect your chicken and chips to take a while.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Is it safe to travel to the DRC?
Travel to the DRC, particularly eastern DRC, including the Goma and Masisi areas, carries significant risks due to ongoing armed conflict and instability. Most foreign governments advise against all but essential travel to North Kivu province. That said, travellers do visit with experienced local guides, good planning, and awareness of current conditions.
What caused the Nyiragongo volcano eruption in 2021?
The May 2021 eruption of Mount Nyiragongo was caused by a sudden collapse of the volcano’s lava lake, sending lava flows racing southward toward Goma. Around 50 people died, mostly in road accidents, during the frantic evacuation. Thousands of homes were destroyed, and hundreds of thousands of people were temporarily displaced.
What is Rica Lodge Malaika and where is it located?
Rica Lodge Malaika is a guesthouse located in Masisi territory, North Kivu province, eastern DRC. It offers comfortable rooms, a restaurant, and pleasant grounds, a surprising find in one of the DRC’s most remote regions.
What does “Mahzungo” mean in the DRC?
“Mzungu” (also written Mahzungo in local variations) is a word used widely across East and Central Africa, including the DRC, to refer to a white foreigner or a person of European descent. It originates from Swahili and Bantu languages and is generally not considered offensive, though it can feel jarring to be called it openly.
Why are roads so bad in the DRC?
This is largely a result of decades of conflict, corruption, lack of investment, and the sheer scale of the country (the DRC is the second-largest country in Africa by area). In areas like Masisi, unpaved dirt roads become almost impassable during the rainy season, further isolating already remote communities.
NEXT UP
Checkpoint trouble and Tcehgera!! Click to read.
This post is part of The East African Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at top of the page.
Question Time
- Have you visited any isolated villages in your travels?
- How did it make you feel to see how they lived?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
