KASHMIR SERIES, DAY 17 – 19
SRINAGAR – LEH – DELHI
A Nasty Fall in Delhi. After being stranded in Leh for what felt like an eternity, I finally caught a flight south.
DELHI GREETS YOU WITH OPEN ARMS — AND OCCASIONALLY, A SHOVE STRAIGHT ONTO THE PAVEMENT.
My plane was three hours late, which meant my big plans for the capital shrank into just a handful of hours. I made for Paharganj, the chaotic hub, but my taxi driver had other ideas. Ten minutes short of my stop, he dumped me on the roadside. Welcome to Delhi.
WHEN DELHI TRIPS YOU UP — LITERALLY
As I trudged toward the train station, I did my best impression of a 90-year-old man and tripped flat on my elbow. Cue a chorus of laughter from locals, quickly followed by plenty of helping hands. So there you go, within 5 minutes we have Delhi in a nutshell: the warmest smiles mixed with the harshest scams.
Dusting myself off, I grabbed a cycle rickshaw and made for my hotel, only to discover later I’d checked into the wrong hotel. Maybe the fall knocked a another screw loose.
PAHARGANJ CHARACTERS
With the sun dipping, I decided to wander the alleys. A palm reader offered his services, which turned into 15 minutes of absolute nonsense. He even used an app for “mystical insights.” You couldn’t make it up.
Next stop: the Red Fort. Built in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, this UNESCO World Heritage site later became a symbol of India’s independence — it’s where the Prime Minister still raises the flag every Independence Day (UNESCO). Getting there, of course, involved the usual rikshaw haggling. Pro tip: if you’re quoted anything over 100 rupees, you’re getting fleeced. Walk away and watch them chase you down with a “special discount.”
CHANDNI CHOWK & PICKPOCKETS
Across the road lies Chandni Chowk, one of India’s busiest markets. Here, the chaos is physical: horns blaring, people shouting, and at least one guy with his fingers in my pocket. Not that pocket you cheeky git. Thankfully, I caught him in the act. Lesson learned — keep everything zipped…
RELATED READ: A BLOODIED NOSE, CRACKED RIB AND SAVING A LIFE
INDIA GATE — A COLONIAL REMINDER
As night fell, I made for India Gate. My rickshaw driver actually gave me a fair price for once, so as is the way, offer me fair price, get a good tip. The gate itself, built by the British, commemorates the 70,000 Indian soldiers who died in World War I and the Afghan wars — conflicts they wanted no part of but I suppose that’s colonialism for you.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Delhi was short, chaotic, and a little painful — but exactly the kind of ending that sums up travel in India. A mix of scams, kindness, history, and bruised elbows.
Never been more glad to get home, but I know I’ll be back for more.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
NEXT UP
I know exactly where, find out soon!
This post is part of the Kashmir Series, for the entire series click here, or for episode 1 click here.
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Question Time
- Would you laugh if you saw me face-plant in front of you?
- Do scams ruin a destination for you, or are they just part of the adventure?
- Which would you pick: Chandni Chowk chaos or India Gate at night?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
