CROSSING INTO UZBEKISTAN
Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara. After a questionable breakfast, my driver collected me, and we made the uncertain drive to the border. Leaving a country is usually easy, just a passport stamp and ensuring you haven’t overstayed.
WELCOME, YOU’RE THE FIRST TO HAVE A VISA ON ARRIVAL HERE
Turkmenistan checks for Turk carpets and antiques, making me nervous about my drone, but they only asked and didn’t search my bag. I was waved straight through and towards the immigration officer.
Did you know?
The train journey between Khiva and Bukhara cuts across the vast Kyzylkum Desert, whose name means “Red Sand” in Turkic languages. It is the 15th largest desert in the world, covering roughly 298,000 square kilometres across Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan.
THE FIRST EVER VISA ON ARRIVAL
Entering Uzbekistan felt vastly different, as if I’d traveled 1000 miles instead of just 500 meters by taxi. Everyone was so warm and welcoming, it made me realise that Uzbekistan could well be the highlight of this trip and something I would be seeing a lot more of.
The immigration officer came straight to me and said not to worry about the immigration form and that I should come straight to the front of the security queue. He was loving the Irish passport, but I was slightly nervous about my drone when they wanted my bag opened. That was until they saw my famous packing cubes and let me on my way.
NEW PLANS
Then it was the immigration where I was apparently the first person to take advantage of this new visa policy today. I still couldn’t believe my luck, I could just as easily be going back to Ashgabat airport! I changed all my plans to visit Bukhara, but the lack of Wi-Fi in my hotel made confirming them difficult. My driver, however, was keen to help and took me to the nearest hotel.
Uzbekistan has suffered of late and was frequented mostly by Americans. However, since 9/11, all that changed, and many locals believe it was down to their country having the syllables “istan”, similar to Afghanistan, etc.
Uzbekistan has suffered of late and was frequented mostly by Americans. However since 9/11 all that changed and many locals believe it was down to their country having the syllables “istan”, similar to Afghanistan etc.
KHIVA
I planned to spend a few hours in Khiva, take the night train to Bukhara, stay a night there, and then in Samarkand, and in Tashkent. This still leaves me plenty of time for my flight to Bangkok before going to Bhutan.
I didn’t have many expectations of Khiva because I didn’t know what to expect, but it was stunning and a place that remained relatively untouched. There were countless weddings, and the guests were getting the bride to look towards my camera as opposed to her own photographers!!
KHIVA….
- 90,000 people
- Established around 1500 years ago
Quick Facts
Legend says Khiva was founded by Shem, the son of the biblical Noah, which may explain why the walled city is sometimes said to resemble an ark. Archaeologists believe Khiva has been inhabited for over 2,500 years, and its inner city, Itchan Kala, became the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in Central Asia.
Khiva’s historic inner city, Itchan Kala, is surrounded by walls that stretch roughly 2.2 km and contain more than 50 historic monuments and around 250 traditional houses dating back centuries along the Silk Road.
FRIENDLY LOCALS
The driver waited before dropping me at the train station, where I’d be arriving in Bukhara in the middle of the night.
The overnight train from Khiva to Bukhara is one of the classic Silk Road routes. Many travelers today actually do the journey the other way around, Bukhara to Khiva, but either direction offers a fascinating glimpse into Uzbekistan’s vast desert landscapes.
I was sharing a room with 3 other locals who seemed to get the fright of their lives when a white guy walked in. They were very kind, and the experience humbled me. One offered me a seat to chat, though only one spoke limited English.
SHARINGS CARING
They shared their food, despite me bringing nothing. They even kept my green tea cup filled! It goes to show that although you might not be able to speak the same language as someone, you can always find a way to communicate. At home, there’s no doubt everyone would be on their phones – me included.
WAKING UP TO A SAUSAGE
After examining my passport stamps, I walked around the train but was often stopped by friendly locals for a chat. Got talking to a fella called Bec, and after hearing about my steak ordeal in Turkmenistan, he offered to meet me in Tashkent and make amends!
Back in the room, I noticed the locals asleep and decided to sleep too. Fifteen minutes later, they got up and started eating. They continued to offer me food and drink – it was the offer of a stick of salami they shoved in my face that had me in fits of laughter!
Muhammad Amin Khan aimed to build Central Asia’s tallest minaret to see Bukhara, but it was left unfinished due to his death in 1855. It was then called Kalta Minor – “short minaret.”
FINAL THOUGHTS
Crossing into Uzbekistan felt like entering a completely different world. The hospitality of the locals, the history of places like Khiva, and the simple moments on that train made it clear this country had far more to offer than I had expected.
Incredible people in this country and a sign of things to come!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How do you travel from Khiva to Bukhara?
Most travelers take the overnight train from Khiva to Bukhara, which crosses Uzbekistan’s Kyzylkum Desert and takes around 6–8 hours.
Can you travel from Bukhara to Khiva easily?
Yes. Many travelers do the route from Bukhara to Khiva as part of the classic Uzbekistan itinerary that includes Samarkand and Tashkent.
Is Khiva worth visiting in Uzbekistan?
Absolutely. Khiva’s old town, Itchan Kala, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with mosques, madrassas, and Silk Road architecture.
Is Uzbekistan safe for tourists?
Uzbekistan is widely considered one of the safest countries in Central Asia for travelers, with many visitors highlighting the friendliness and hospitality of locals.
Is the overnight train from Khiva to Bukhara comfortable?
Yes, the overnight train between Khiva and Bukhara is a common way to travel across Uzbekistan. Most trains offer sleeper compartments where passengers share cabins with locals and other travelers.
How long is the train from Khiva to Bukhara?
The train journey between Khiva and Bukhara usually takes 6–8 hours, depending on the train type and schedule.
What is Khiva famous for?
Khiva is famous for Itchan Kala, its perfectly preserved walled city filled with mosques, madrassas, and turquoise-tiled minarets from the Silk Road era.
Do people speak English in Uzbekistan?
English isn’t widely spoken outside tourist areas, but locals are often very welcoming and helpful. Many travelers find communication easy through gestures, translation apps, or basic Russian phrases.
NEXT UP
Bukhara. Click to read
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
129/229
This post is part of the Central Asia Series, click to explore or for episode 1 click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
Question Time
- Whats you experience of border crossings?
- Have you ever been refused entry?
- Have you been to Khiva, what did you think?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
