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CROSSING INTO UZBEKISTAN

Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara. After a questionable breakfast, my driver collected me, and we made the uncertain drive to the border. Leaving a country is usually easy, just a passport stamp and ensuring you haven’t overstayed.

WELCOME, YOU’RE THE FIRST TO HAVE A VISA ON ARRIVAL HERE

Turkmenistan checks for Turk carpets and antiques, making me nervous about my drone, but they only asked and didn’t search my bag. I was waved straight though and towards the immigration officer.

WHERE IS THE UZBEKISTAN BORDER?

TURKMENISTAN BORDER

The officer was happy to stamped me out but he wanted to see my visa for Uzbekistan. The Turkmenistan officer needed to see my Uzbekistan visa to ensure I wouldn’t have to return and reapply for a new visa.

Anyway I had the presidents decree at the ready and after airdropping it to him he wished me a safe journey and off I went.

THE FIRST EVER VISA ON ARRIVAL

Entering Uzbekistan felt vastly different, as if I’d traveled 1000 miles instead of just 500 meters by taxi. Everyone was so warm and welcoming, it made me realise that Uzbekistan could well be the highlight of this trip and something I would be seeing a lot more of.

The immigration officer came straight to me and said not to worry about the immigration form and that I should come straight to the front of the security queue. He was loving the Irish passport but I was slightly nervous about my drone when they wanted my bag opened. That was until they saw my famous packing cubes and let me on my way.

Unfinished ceiling restoration in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara
David Simpson with friendly local boys in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara

NEW PLANS

Then it was the immigration where I was apparently the first person to take advantage of this new visa policy today. I still couldn’t believe my luck, I could just as easily be going back to Ashgabat airport! I changed all my plans to visit Bukhara, but the lack of Wi-Fi in my hotel made confirming them difficult. My driver however was keen to help and took me to the nearest hotel.

Uzbekistan has suffered of late and was frequented mostly by Americans. However since 9/11 all that changed and many locals believe it was down to their country having the syllables “istan”, similar to Afghanistan etc.

Architecture in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara

KHIVA

I planned to spend a few hours in Khiva, take the night train to Bukhara, and stay a night there, in Samarkand, and in Tashkent. This still leaves me having plenty of time for my flight to Bangkok before going to Bhutan.

I didn’t have much expectations of Khiva because I didn’t know what to expect but it was stunning and a place that remained relatively untouched. There were countless weddings and the guests were getting the bride to look towards my camera as opposed the her own photographers!!

KHIVA….

  • 90,000 people
  • Established around 1500 years ago

FRIENDLY LOCALS

The driver waited before dropping me at the train station, where I’d be arriving in Bukhara in the middle of the night. I was sharing a room with 3 other locals who seemed to get the fright of their life when I white guy walked in.

They were very kind, and the experience humbled me. One offered me a seat to chat, though only one spoke limited English.

David Simpson wearing a fur hat and seated in the middle of the street in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara

SHARINGS CARING

They shared their food, despite me bringing nothing. They even kept my green tea cup filled! It goes to show that although you might not be able to speak the same language as someone but you can always find a way to communicate. At home there’s no doubt everyone would be on their phones – me included.

WAKING UP TO A SAUSAGE

After examining my passport stamps, I walked around the train but was often stopped by friendly locals for a chat. Got talking to a fella called Bec and after hearing about my steak ordeal in Turkmenistan he offered to meet me in Tashkent and make amends!

Back in the room, I noticed the locals asleep and decided to sleep too. Fifteen minutes later, they got up and started eating. They continued to offer me food and drink – it was the offer of a stick of salami they shoved in my face that had me in fits of laughter!

David Simpson wearing a fur hat and seated in the middle of the street in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara
Kalta Minor in Khiva, Uzbekistan. Crossing in Uzbekistan and the train to Bukhara

Muhammad Amin Khan aimed to build Central Asia’s tallest minaret to see Bukhara, but it was left unfinished due to his death in 1855. It was then called Kalta Minor – “short minaret.”

FINAL THOUGHTS

Incredible people in this country and a sign of things to come!

NEXT UP

Bukhara. Click to read

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
129/229

This post is part of the Central Asia Series, click to explore or for episode 1 click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.

Question Time

  • Whats you experience of border crossings?
  • Have you ever been refused entry?
  • Have you been to Khiva, what did you think?

Let me know in the comments below . . .

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GATES TO HELL, VISA DISAPPOINTMENT & THE WORST STEAK IN THE WORLD
A DAY IN BUKHARA, THE HIGHLIGHT OF UZBEKISTAN

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