VISITING THE BIRTHPLACE OF BOKO HARAM12 min read

THE NIGERIAN SERIES, DAY 4 & 5

LAGOS – ABUJA – MAIDUGURI

Visiting the Birthplace of Boko Haram. Whether you’re into politics or not, we’ve all heard the words “Boko Haram” — one of the world’s most brutal terrorist groups.

“Never thought in my wildest dreams or nightmares I would be here.”

Boko Haram is mainly active around the Sahel, a lawless region stretching across much of southern Sahara.

WHERE IS MAIDUGURI?

Maiduguri

ARRIVAL

As Mohammad was traveling from Bauchi, I made the trip to Maiduguri alone — and to be honest, I was genuinely excited. I know this place has a terrible reputation, but I was convinced the reality would be different. Little did I know how surprised I would be!

Visiting the Birthplace of Boko Haram

FIRST ISSUE

The flight wasn’t without its problems. At check-in, I was given someone else’s boarding pass; Daniel John instead of David John — close enough, but not close enough for airport security but after a few tense phone calls later, I was allowed through.
The thing about much of Africa is that paperwork will either make your day… or break it. Borders can be super frustrating, but sometimes paperwork isn’t taken seriously at all.

You can tell people do not see foreigners much in this region as walking to the toilet I have some guy try and take a photo of me haha. But the fact that he had the phone turned around and had it only selfie gave the game away. Always delighted to see them panic when I take their phone only to take a selfie of us before handing it back. Hopefully this is a sign that photos and videos are well accepted.

Visiting the Birthplace of Boko Haram

SECOND ISSUE

After checking into the Pinnacle Hotel (not bad), we headed to buy a prayer hat at a small roadside market which showcases the whole production process right there in front of you. The setup was great, and everyone was incredibly friendly.

That said, we were approached rather assertively by one of the elders who told us we needed to ask for permission. Usual shenanigans I thought but there was no anterior motive, no request for money etc. after a brief chat we were good to go on our way and chat with whoever we liked.

Visiting the Birthplace of Boko Haram

LOCALS

Obviously, the first person I decided to interview was the man who stopped us — why not, lol. Like many people here, he moved to Maiduguri during the crisis after Boko Haram took over the surrounding villages. The city is now the safest option, but returning home isn’t yet an option for most.

Life here is tough, many kids working here at the market instead of being in school. Many families have had no choice but to pull their children out of education just to help make ends meet — with some working for as little as $1 a month.

Visiting the Birthplace of Boko Haram

DAY 5

After a quiet night with a beer in the hotel (yes, beer in Boko Haram territory!), we kicked off the day exploring one of the local markets.

Now, markets usually aren’t my thing, but when you’re this far off the beaten path, I can’t suggest it enough— because you’ll see things you won’t see anywhere else in the world.
From cooking oil that looks like cement to recycled nails, it was a full display of survival and creativity.

CATTLE MARKET

Not a place that would normally be at the top of my todo list but cattle markets here are a huge part of the economy and at times seen as currency. Buyers, sellers, and even aspiring husbands gather here. And they’re not cheap either — a fully grown male can cost over $1,200!

Again, I was blown away by the friendliness of everyone. People were open, keen to chat, and happy to be filmed — not something I expected here at all.

FRIDAY PRAYER

Despite visiting many mosques across the Islamic world, I had never taken part in a Friday prayer before — the biggest prayer day of the week. Mohammad took me along, taught me about the process of ablution, and explained how the prayers are conducted. Only when you witness Friday prayers at a mosque of this size do you really grasp the scale of Islam. It was fascinating.

TRAIN STATION

After some local food, we visited the infamous train station of Maiduguri. This was once the operational centre of Boko Haram’s activities — including murders and executions.
Today, the station sits abandoned. Trains have been looted, anything of value stripped away.
but still, locals gather here, sitting around and smoking — another reflection of the challenges and lack of opportunity in this part of the world.

IDP CAMP

Right beside the station was one of the many IDP camps (Internally Displaced Persons) set up by the government and NGOs. There are around 1.4 million IDPs in this region alone, most forced into Maiduguri after Boko Haram took over their towns and villages. Now, the government is trying to force people to return home, claiming the towns are safe — but many refuse as the threat still remains. Hard to blame them, considering there’s still a 6 PM curfew even inside the city.

FAMILY

Mohammad was able to setup a meeting with one of the families and a look inside their home. This is not the standard tents we have come to expect from camps in Africa but the home sleeps 3 families of 22! Today was one of those reminders about how a lot of life is pure luck.

MOHAMMAD YUSUF

You might not know the name, but Mohammad Yusuf founded Boko Haram in 2002, right here in Maiduguri. He took over huge parts of the Sahel across several countries and then turned his sights on directly on Nigeria. He had sponsors, money, and quickly built a following — buying support in a community with little to no opportunities. Today, Yusuf’s former home is nothing but ruins. His mosque has been flattened, and only the madrasah walls and old blackboards remain — silent witnesses to the damage and destruction he caused.

Its clear people are still aware of the issues here as my guide wanted me to finish up and get back to the hotel before sunset.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Maiduguri isn’t an easy place to visit — mentally or physically. But it’s a place that tells you a lot about how the world really works when politics, poverty, and extremism collide.

I’m glad I made the journey — because once again, the people you meet completely change the story you thought you knew.

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
173/229

NEXT UP

Hyena’s and bare knuckle boxing in Kano, another city in the Sahel!! Click to read.

This post is part of the Nigerian Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.

To see a different side of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at top of the page.