NIGERIAN SERIES, DAY 9, 10 & 11
KANO – LAGOS
The misunderstood city of Lagos. After a few weeks zig-zagging across Nigeria, it was time to tackle the beast itself: Lagos.
“Lagos isn’t so bad after all.”
Most travelers visiting every country only spend 48 panicked hours here before making a run for the border, so I was curious to see what everyone was afraid of.
The Misunderstood City of Lagos
WHERE IS LAGOS?
Lagos
MARINA MARKET: WHERE HELP COMES AT A PRICE
After a fairly chaotic money change at a “POS” which is basically a guy with a machine and a bag of cash, I realized just how broken the banking system is here. ATMs can only spit out $20 a day and inflation is turning cash into Monopoly money.
Walking through the market was as insane as any African market, every few steps some mad dish of wild bush meat was being cook along with smiling faces offering help — for a small tip, naturally. But to my surprise nobody was aggressive.
Being called Òyìnbó (white person) was the soundtrack to my shopping spree. It’s shouted with so much good humor that you almost forget you’re being charged double. After bartering like my life depended on it — I walked away feeling victorious even though deep down I knew I was had.
The Misunderstood City of Lagos
FLAG….

- GREEN – Stands for Nigeria’s lush vegetation and its agricultural industry.
- WHITE – Symbolizes peace and unity.
- Designed in 1959 by a student, Michael Taiwo Akinkunmi.
LANDFILL REALITIES: HOPE IN A SEA OF WASTE
Next up: Lagos’ main landfill — a surreal, endless sprawl of waste and the most incredible stench. We tried getting permission to go inside but were told it was “a government matter.” Which means a six-month application and a suitcase of bribe money.
Instead, we waited outside the gates, where we found a few workers taking a break. I spoke to a few of them — much to the dismay of the nearby guards who took issue with what I was doing and as expected demanded their “share.” Tough luck lads, the interviews were already done.
Most of the guys had the same feeling, “I want to leave this country. I will do anything, work any job.” It’s easy to forget how lucky some of us can be just on where we were born. Many of the workers here were from Niger and came here for work. How bad does Niger have to be to come all this way to work in landfill.
The Misunderstood City of Lagos
RELATED READ: GETTING ROBBED AND BREAKING MY HAND IN AUSTIN TEXAS
OSHODI MARKET AND LAGOS’ LOST KIDS
Later that afternoon, we made our way to Oshodi Market, another wild market not far from the airport. After a quick walk around, chatting to a few locals and seeing what was on offer we came across a group known as the “track boys,” young men struggling with heavy drug use. What was shocking wasn’t their presence, but how young some of them were.
One girl on the same overpass, no older than 16, sat watching the hours drip by like she wanted to be anywhere else. She was from Togo, a neighbouring country, sent here to make money for her family. I couldn’t help but wonder how she made it through the day, barely speaking English, she just nodded in pigeon (broken English) and French. We gave her some money, received a smile and asked her to look after herself.
Give me 3 weeks overlanding West Africa any day because these are the hardest moments.
The Misunderstood City of Lagos
FACTS ABOUT LAGOS:
- Lagos is Africa’s largest city by population, but it’s hasn’t been the capital since 1991.
- Lagos was ranked as one of the top ten most stressful cities in the world to live in by the World Economic Forum.
- The city is built over a series of islands, making traffic more chaotic than can imagine.
DAY 10: LUNCH WITH THE FORGOTTEN
Today was mostly a free day before leaving tonight. But instead of lounging around, I returned to Oshodi to spend time with the track boys, I wanted an insight into their life. I’m not usually sympathetic when it comes to drug addicts — but here, it felt different. These guys aren’t just battling addiction, but normal life as it can be as brutal any anything.
I bought them some lunch, probably without a proper meal in weeks. I was warned by many not to go near them but they stood around me, listening to the stories of their friends.
However, as time passed more began to appear and eventually 10 turned into 20 and then 30 all hopeful of getting a share of the food. Another reminder for me but in a city of 25 million you don’t need to go far.
FACTS ABOUT NIGERIA:
- Language: English (plus over 500 local languages)
- Hello: Sannu (Hausa) / Bawo ni (Yoruba)
- How to say Cheers: “Wàkáti!”
- Most Popular Drink: Palm wine
- Most Popular Sport: Football (soccer)
- Most Popular Food: Jollof rice
FINAL THOUGHTS
Over the past few days I have learned a crucial lessons, Lagos isn’t the monster it’s made out to be. Sure, life here is brutal for many — but the spirit is unforgettable.
Nigeria offers experiences and people you won’t find anywhere else in the world even challenging those I met in Pakistan. I came here half expecting to regret it, but instead, I’m already planning my return.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
NEXT UP
Next up, I’m thinking the Middle East or back to Africa!
This post is part of the Nigerian Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at top of the page.

Question Time
- Would you dare to walk through a Lagos market solo?
- Have you ever seriously misjudged a city before visiting?
- What’s the most misunderstood country you’ve ever visited?
Let me know in the comments below . . .