I arrived in Kano with plenty of assumptions, but this northern Nigerian city completely changed my perspective. From the chaotic markets to the harsh realities inside the tanneries, every moment felt intense and eye-opening. Kano showed me a side of Nigeria that few travellers ever see, and it left a lasting impression on me.
Nigerian Series, Day 8: Kano
Kano, Nigeria’s Northern City. After an incredible day yesterday, Kano had set a very high bar and was soon becoming the shock surprise of my travels.
“I could not have been more wrong about a region in my life!”
Who would have thought they could experience so much in a place generally unvisited?
The Craziest Market Experience I Had in Nigeria
First up, we headed to the local market. It’s true what they say, there ain’t no market like an African market! Calling it chaotic is generous. Somehow, in the middle of it all, I ended up getting my prayer hat ironed (new for me too) by a local kid using a coal-heated iron straight out of Henry the VIII’s kitchen.
Kano, Nigeria’s Northern City
The Best $0.10 I’ve Ever Spent in Kano City for the Street Shave
Now, I don’t exactly have Gandalf-level facial hair, but my bum fluff was no match for the local barber. In what was easily one of the best shaves I’ve ever had, and for the princely sum of $0.10, he left my face smoother than a scammer’s sales pitch.
Of course, a crowd gathered around to watch. But as with everything here, the smiles and warmth made it feel like a party, not a spectacle.
Kano, Nigeria’s Northern City
The Darkest Side of Life in Kano, Nigeria, I Have Witnessed
If the market was chaotic, the tannery was hellish. The first thing that hits you is the smell — an overwhelming stench of open sewers, rivers of rubbish, and whatever unholy mix ferments in the toxic runoff from tanning leather. I dry-wretched several times, and struggled to maintain composure and respect in front of the people who call this place home.
Inside, men worked in unbearable heat, skinning crocodiles and cobras, fermenting the hides, and drying them under the punishing sun.
The worst part? This leather, made in conditions you wouldn’t wish on anyone, will eventually be stitched into luxury bags and shoes sold for thousands of dollars. None of that money will trickle back here.
Kano, Nigeria’s Northern City
RELATED READ: EATING SCORPIONS AND INSECTS IN BANGKOK MARKET
My Visit to Kano’s Central Mosque and Its Dark History
Later, we visited Kano’s Central Mosque — a beautiful yet haunted place. This was the site of one of Boko Haram’s worst atrocities in 2014, when a bomb exploded during prayers. As survivors rushed out, militants waited in the car park with machine guns, killing over 120 people.
Despite this dark chapter, the city feels overwhelmingly safe today. The locals are proud, resilient, and determined not to be defined by tragedy.
Kano, Nigeria’s Northern City
Facts About Kano City, Nigeria
- Kano is one of the oldest cities in West Africa, dating back over a thousand years.
- It is Nigeria’s second-largest city by population after Lagos.
- The ancient walls of Kano, built for defence, are considered one of Africa’s most impressive monuments.
Dahal Hill Gave Me the Best View of Kano and Its Hardest Truths
We finished the day by hiking up Dahal Hill — a massive rock outcrop where Kano first began and a perfect place to end our time in the north. The views at sunset were nothing short of stunning, giving a clear 360-degree view of the entire city. But scattered among the rocks were empty packs of drugs and syrup bottles, left behind by young guys who come here at night seeking an escape of what can be a difficult place to live.
I spoke with a local teenager taking in the view. He talked openly about the lack of opportunities, the struggle to find work, and how drugs have quietly become an epidemic here.
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube video below.
Final Thoughts
We often get an idea of a place before we even arrive. But I was never more wrong than I was about Northern Nigeria. The people here have been nothing short of amazing — welcoming, kind, and eager to share their city’s real story. Kano, you surprised me in the best way possible, and I cannot wait to return.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Kano, Nigeria, known for?
Kano is one of the oldest and most historically significant cities in West Africa, dating back over a thousand years. Known as Nigeria’s northern city, Kano is famous for its ancient city walls, traditional leather tanneries, vibrant markets, and the Grand Central Mosque.
What is life in Kano like?
Life in Kano city is a vivid mix of ancient tradition and modern-day hardship. The streets are always active, filled with traders, artisans, and vibrant local markets that reflect a strong sense of community. At the same time, I notice that many residents, especially young people, struggle with issues like unemployment, poverty, and a rising drug problem. Even with these difficulties, the resilience, warmth, and spirit of the people remain incredibly strong.
What are the best things to do in Kano, Nigeria?
When I think of Kano, I imagine exploring its colourful and energetic local markets, visiting the traditional leather tanneries, and touring the historic Kano Central Mosque. One of my favourite experiences would be hiking up Dahal Hill to watch the sunset over a 360-degree view of the city. The ancient city walls are also a must-see.
What happened at the Central Mosque in Kano in 2014?
In 2014, a bomb planted by Boko Haram exploded inside Kano’s Central Mosque during Friday prayers. As worshippers fled, militants positioned in the car park opened fire, resulting in the deaths of over 120 people. It remains one of the most devastating terrorist attacks in northern Nigerian history. Today, the mosque continues to serve its community and stands as a symbol of resilience in Kano city.
What is Dahal Hill in Kano, Nigeria?
Dahal Hill is a large ancient rock formation in Kano that is believed to be the original settlement site of the city. From the top, I can see a breathtaking 360-degree view of Kano, especially beautiful at sunset. However, it also carries a more serious reality, as it is known locally as a place where some young people gather and struggle with drug use.
What language do people speak in Kano, Nigeria?
The primary language spoken in Kano is Hausa, which is the dominant language across much of northern Nigeria and the wider West African region. Arabic is also widely used in religious contexts, reflecting Kano’s strong Islamic heritage. English is Nigeria’s official language and is used in education, government, and formal settings across Kano city.
NEXT UP
Back to Lagos for proper chaos! Click to read.
This post is part of the Nigerian Series. For the entire series, click here, or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip, head to my social channels: YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at the top of the page.
Question Time
- Would you visit a working tannery like the one in Kano?
- Do you think luxury brands should do more to support the workers behind their products?
- Has a city ever surprised you as much as Kano surprised me?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
