THE MIDWEST AFRICAN SERIES, DAY 6 – 8
YAMOUSSOUKRO – MAN – GANTA
The first border of West Africa. Today marks the real beginning of the road trip as we set off towards the western border of the Ivory Coast.
WELCOME TO COUNTRY NUMBER 164
But first before we head to Man we have a quick stop in Yamoussoukro, the new political capital of the Ivory Coast.
WHERE IS MAN?
Man
I won’t lie, it wasn’t emotional leaving Abidjan, it’s a big city but I know Africa well enough to know the real experiences are to be had on the road and outside the major cities. How the fuh is it called the Paris of Africa??
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL –
Les Cascades, Man (7)
Jackie’s, Ganta (8)
Embassy Suites , Monrovia (8) - ATTRACTIONS –
YAMOUSSOUKRO
The vibe in Yam is very different than in Abidjan, the roads are pothole free, wide and pretty much empty. This city, the country’s new capital was the personal project of the first president who wanted to create a new city and capital away from the south. Even after spending billions it hasn’t seemed to work. You might wonder why he chose here, well this was his hometown. In fact he built a wall around his hometown, and converted it into the presidential palace and built the city around it!
The first border of West Africa
FACTS ABOUT IVORY COAST:
- The Ivory Coast boasts remarkable biodiversity, with over 230 mammals, 700 birds, 125 reptiles, and more than 35 types of amphibians. It’s home to around 4,700 plants.
- The Ivory Coast has two capital cities. Yamoussoukro is the official political capital, while Abidjan remains the administrative capital and is also the world’s third-largest French-speaking city after Kinshasa and Paris.
- After gaining independence in 1960, the Ivory Coast enjoyed stability for several decades. However, a military coup in 1999, followed by a civil war in 2002, led to political turmoil. Despite international intervention, the country continues to grapple with instability and violence.
THE BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF PEACE
Another personal project of his was to build a church but not just any church, the world’s biggest. This was something extraordinary even if completely unnecessary. I expected to be impressed by the size but the attention to detail was phenomenal!
There was no expense spared. So much so that the wood for the pews was sourced in Ivory Coast and sent to Italy for manufacturing! I found it incredibly smart that the air conditioning is built into the pews themselves.
The first border of West Africa
BUS TO MAN
I wanted to do West Africa on public transport but this would involve a lot of di*king around at borders and not having much flexibility to stop between towns. But this afternoon we said bye to Dayo and jumped on our bus to Man.
I’m not going to lie, it wasn’t the most comfortable trip. Buses in Europe, usually have 2rows of 2 seats and 5 at the back. However busses here squeeze another one in making it super tight. I had to constantly figit with the people either side of me to get comfortable.
RELATED READ: CAUGHT FILMING AT THE DRC BORDER
DAY 7 – AFRICAN ROOT BRIDGE
This morning we met Manuel, our guide for the next week or so. This is when the real adventure begins as we start the long ass days of hauling through the outback of West Africa.
Our first stop was at the famous African root bridge. It’s exactly what it says, a bridge made entirely from roots. However the locals say that it is built by spirits who replace the bridge as new every year…
LIBERIA BORDER
These tend to be the biggest time wasters of the entire trip, you just don’t know what will be thrown in front of you. But besides it taking 1hr 30min it was plain sailing. We even offered some cash to one of the officers who rejected it lol however later on they were happy to take it. The reason for these easy payments is to make these borders and checkpoints that little bit easier as the driver is forever driving through them!
FLAG….
- ELEVEN STRIPES – Symbolize the signatories of the Liberian Declaration of Independence.
- RED & WHITE – Symbolize courage and moral excellence.
- WHITE STAR – Represents the first independent republic in Africa.
- BLUE SQUARE – Represents the African continent.
UNOFFICIAL CROSSING IN GUINEA
I noticed a few months ago that the border between Liberia and Guinea is mostly just a large river, often connected with just a wooden raft to get people across. Obviously these borders are a little less official than the main road borders so I wanted to try and cross one.
We parked up at the main road and took to a motorbike – the roads going into the bush are non-existent. I did not expect to be on the bike for over an hour but to be honest it was a hell of a trip. Finally, we reached the village and I have no doubt very few if any tourists have been here, no one could possibly know it exists, even the locals didn’t know and the driver got lost.
Here the kids were as curious as ever, which is often the case in African villages but at the same time keeping their distance! Still getting used to kids as young as 6 carrying around a machete!
THE CROSSING
Of course because we are in West Africa I was asked, in a charming way of course, for some money. This was not to cross over but to be able to come back which I found hilarious. I always say no to this carry on but because I was effectively crossing into Guinea illegally, I agreed to give him some when I came back. I have officially given out my first bribe in West Africa.
The area was incredibly scenic and we crossed and met the border official from the Guinean side. Not entirely sure what he does all day besides sit around..
WHERE IS LIBERIA?
Liberia
GANTA
We made our way back to the jeep (another hour on the bike) and headed to tonight’s hotel in Ganta, Jackie’s Guesthouse. A decent hotel with a basketball court, swimming pools and a gym which I used alongside some hilarious locals. If I worked out here every day I would get nothing done!
CHILD SOLDIER
I got talking to the manager of the gym who was originally from Sierra Leone and asked him about the war. Turns out he was in the midst of it, and at 10 years would have often seen people getting their heads cut off. To get over the trauma he was given cocaine by the local army. A ten year old and cocaine! These people have been through it all and I can’t wait to see the country and its people myself.
DAY 8 – CHARLES TAYLORS FARM
Back during the civil war there was no bigger warlord in the region than Charles Taylor. Charles would have lead many of the rebel groups and in the process killed thousands of locals as well as forcibly recruiting 1000s of child soldiers all before becoming president. However it was due to these heinous crimes that he was eventually found guilty of war crimes and now serves the rest of his years in an English prison.
I did not expect to get so close to his farm, a palace he was constructing during his presidency and in the very region that he committed so many of those atrocities.
FINAL THOUGHTS
That is the first leg of this roadtrip done and I can see why West Africa can be so complicated! The roads might have been actually pretty good but the checkpoints were a constant.
NEXT UP
Monrovia and meeting General Butt Naked!! Click to read.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
164/229
This post is part of The Midwest Africa Series, for the entire series click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
