THE MIDWEST AFRICAN SERIES, DAY 6 – 8
YAMOUSSOUKRO – MAN – GANTA
I started my West Africa road trip by crossing from the Ivory Coast into Liberia a journey full of surprises, challenges, and unforgettable moments. If you’re planning this route, here’s what I experienced and learned about the Ivory Coast border crossing, local culture, and must-see spots from Yamoussoukro all the way to Monrovia.
Welcome to Ivory Coast’s Political Capital: Yamoussoukro Country Number 164
Before heading to Liberia, I stopped in Yamoussoukro, the country’s official political capital. Compared to Abidjan, the city felt quiet and almost empty, with smooth, wide roads. One highlight was the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace the world’s largest church which amazed me not just for its size but for the incredible details, like pews made from Ivory Coast wood but crafted in Italy, and air conditioning built right into the seating.
Exploring Man and the Magical African Root Bridge
In Man, I had the chance to visit the African Root Bridge a living bridge made entirely from tree roots. The locals say spirits rebuild it every year, which adds a mysterious charm. It was incredible to witness such a natural and cultural wonder preserved by tradition.
WHERE IS MAN?
Man is a town tucked away in the western part of the Ivory Coast (coordinates linked for travellers). Leaving Abidjan, the political capital of the Ivory Coast, I wasn’t emotional it’s a busy city but I know enough about Africa to realise the real experiences happen on the road, away from major cities. Seriously, though, how is Man called the “Paris of Africa”?
Man
I won’t lie, it wasn’t emotional leaving Abidjan, it’s a big city but I know Africa well enough to know the real experiences are to be had on the road and outside the major cities. How the fuh is it called the Paris of Africa??
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL –
Les Cascades, Man (7)
Jackie’s, Ganta (8)
Embassy Suites , Monrovia (8) - ATTRACTIONS –
YAMOUSSOUKRO
The vibe in Yamoussoukro is entirely different from Abidjan. The roads here are vast, pothole-free, and almost deserted. This city was the pet project of the Ivory Coast’s first president, Félix Houphouët-Boigny. He wanted a new capital away from the south and dedicated billions to building it. It hasn’t fully lived up to that vision, though. He chose Yamoussoukro because it was his hometown—he even had a wall built around it and turned it into a presidential palace, then built the city around that.
The first border of West Africa
FACTS ABOUT IVORY COAST:
- The Ivory Coast boasts remarkable biodiversity, with over 230 mammals, 700 birds, 125 reptiles, and more than 35 types of amphibians. It’s home to around 4,700 plants.
- The Ivory Coast has two capital cities. Yamoussoukro is the official political capital, while Abidjan remains the administrative capital and is also the world’s third-largest French-speaking city after Kinshasa and Paris.
- After gaining independence in 1960, the Ivory Coast enjoyed stability for several decades. However, a military coup in 1999, followed by a civil war in 2002, led to political turmoil. Despite international intervention, the country continues to grapple with instability and violence.
THE BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF PEACE
Another personal project of his was to build a church, but not just any church, the world’s biggest. This was something extraordinary even if completely unnecessary. I expected the size to impress me, but the attention to detail was phenomenal!
There was no expense spared, so much so that they sourced the wood for the pews in the Ivory Coast and sent it to Italy for manufacturing! I found it incredibly smart that they built the air conditioning into the pews themselves.
The first border of West Africa
BUS TO MAN
I wanted to do West Africa on public transport but this would involve a lot of di*king around at borders and not having much flexibility to stop between towns. But this afternoon we said bye to Dayo and jumped on our bus to Man.
I’m not going to lie, it wasn’t the most comfortable trip. European buses usually have 2 rows of 2 seats and 5 at the back. However, buses here squeeze in another seat, making it super tight. I had to constantly figit with the people either side of me to get comfortable.
RELATED READ: CAUGHT FILMING AT THE DRC BORDER
DAY 7 – AFRICAN ROOT BRIDGE
This morning we met Manuel, our guide for the next week or so. This is when the real adventure begins as we start the long, ass days of hauling through the outback of West Africa.
Our first stop was at the famous African root bridge. It’s exactly what it says, a bridge made entirely from roots. However, the locals say that it is built by spirits who replace the bridge every year…
LIBERIA BORDER
These tend to be the most significant time wasters of the entire trip; you just don’t know what will be thrown in front of you. But besides it taking 1hr 30min, it was plain sailing. We even offered some cash to one of the officer,s whoinitially rejected i. However,r later onn they were happy to take it. The reason for these easy payments is to make these borders and checkpoints a little bit easier as the driver is forever driving through them!
FLAG….
- ELEVEN STRIPES – Symbolize the signatories of the Liberian Declaration of Independence.
- RED & WHITE – Symbolize courage and moral excellence.
- WHITE STAR – Represents the first independent republic in Africa.
- BLUE SQUARE – Represents the African continent.
UNOFFICIAL CROSSING IN GUINEA
I noticed a few months ago that the border between Liberia and Guinea is mostly just a large river, often connected with just a wooden raft to get people across. Obviously these borders are a little less official than the main road borders so I wanted to try and cross one.
We parked up at the main road and took to a motorbike – the roads going into the bush are non-existent. I did not expect to be on the bike for over an hour but to be honest it was a hell of a trip. Finally, we reached the village and I have no doubt very few if any tourists have been here, no one could possibly know it exists, even the locals didn’t know and the driver got lost.
Here the kids were as curious as ever, which is often the case in African villages but at the same time keeping their distance! Still getting used to kids as young as 6 carrying around a machete!
THE CROSSING
True to West African style, I was asked for the privilege of returning, not for crossing to pay a bribe. I usually refuse, but since I was crossing illegally, I agreed. That was my first bribe in West Africa.
The scenery was breathtaking. We met the Guinea border official, who seemed to spend his days just sitting there.
CHILD SOLDIER
I got talking to the manager of the gym, who was originally from Sierra Leone and asked him about the war. Turns out he was in the midst of it, and at 10 years would have often seen people getting their heads cut off. To get over the trauma, the local army gave him cocaine. A ten-year-old and cocaine! These people have been through it all, and I can’t wait to see the country and its people myself.
DAY 8 – CHARLES TAYLORS FARM
Back during the civil war, there was no bigger warlord in the region than Charles Taylor. Charles would have led many of the rebel groups and, in the process, killed thousands of locals as well as forcibly recruiting 1000s of child soldiers, all before becoming president. However, these heinous crimes eventually led to his conviction for war crimes, and he now serves the rest of his years in an English prison.
I did not expect to get so close to his farm, a palace he was constructing during his presidency and in the very region that he committed so many of those atrocities.
I did not expect to get so close to his farm, a palace he was constructing during his presidency and in the very region that he committed so many of those atrocities.
KPATAWEE WATERFALL
Getting off the main road again, we headed to Kpatawee which is a small eco lodge beside an impressive waterfall for a bite to eat, some chill and to give my toe a good clean. I don’t know if this water will make or break it but we will soon find out!
FINAL THOUGHTS
That is the first leg of this roadtrip done, and I can see why West Africa can be so complicated! The roads might have been actually pretty good, but the checkpoints were a constant.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
164/229
FAQs
Why does the Ivory Coast have two capitals?
Ivory Coast has two capitals: Yamoussoukro, the political capital, and Abidjan, the economic and administrative capital. Yamoussoukro was chosen as the political capital to decentralise power from the southern region.
What is the politics of the Ivory Coast?
Ivory Coast operates as a presidential republic with a multi-party system. The president holds significant executive power, and the country has experienced periods of political instability, including a civil war.
Who is in power in the Ivory Coast?
As of now, Alassane Ouattara serves as the president of the Ivory Coast. He has held office since 2011 after winning the post following a disputed election and civil unrest.
What is the name of the border between Ghana and the Ivory Coast?
The border between Ghana and the Ivory Coast is commonly referred to as the Ivory Coast-Ghana Border. It is one of the main international boundaries in West Africa.
NEXT UP
Monrovia and meeting General Butt Naked!! Click to read to read more about my journey through Liberia.
This post is part of The Midwest Africa Series. For the complete series, explore all posts here.
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Question Time
- Would you prefer to be off the beaten path or something more familiar?
- Do you enjoy war history and visiting old battle sites?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
