THE MIDWEST AFRICAN SERIES, DAY 9
MONROVIA
General Butt Naked – Monrovia wouldn’t have been at the top of my list when it comes to West Africa, but as soon as I heard I could meet an old warlord, I was dying to visit.
MURDERED 20,000 CIVILIANS, RECRUITED 100s OF CHILD SOLDIERS AND ATE BABIES BEFORE GOING INTO BATTLE
This is not any warlord; however, this was the infamous general butt naked. It might sound like a bit of a sketch, but it’s true, the man would have gone into battle with nothing but his massive weapon…
WHERE IS MONROVIA?
Monrovia
General Butt Naked – From Warlord to Rehabilitation Leader
Unless you look into the depths of the internet, you can find little about Joshua Milton Blahyi. However, if you look hard enough you will see a pretty shady past. GBN was an old war lord who plagued the country during the civil war in the 1990s. He garnered troops with his charisma and promise of safety and security during a dangerous period for all.
Some of the atrocities he committed are well beyond your wildest nightmares. Troops often killed men on sight, for fear they were already part of a rebel gang. Soldiers raped women, gave kids a concoction of drink and drugs, and armed them with guns, and they often ate babies as part of a pre-battle ritual.
To know more about Liberia’s history, read: THE FIRST BORDER OF WEST AFRICA.
General Butt Naked
Major Highlights….
- HOTEL –
Embassy Suites (8) - ATTRACTIONS –
General Butt Naked
Providence Island
Waterside
West Point
Ducor Hotel
A NEW MISSION
Now the warlord has changed course and operates a rehab centre for child soldiers and anyone affected by drug use, a major issue in Liberia. The rehab center keeps them for around 18 months, where they are fed, housed, and put to work, but unfortunately aren’t able to leave the confines of the compound.
They are currently in the process of extending the facilities to include a gymnasium, basketball court, and more dorms to increase the number to 300.
General Butt Naked
THE PEOPLE
Fortunately, I got a chance to speak with some of the guys here, and they were keen to show me their rooms. I think they like the novelty of new people coming here, but I cannot imagine being stuck in a compound cold turkey for 18 months. Currently, the center houses about 12 people to a room, but it will soon change with the addition of bunk beds, and will then become 30 to a room. Although there are a lot of people, it also means more people receive help.
General Butt Naked
FORGIVENESS
I did try to ask about his past, but in fairness, he probably prefers to move on. It’s hard to determine the right thing to do. After the war, there was a motion that allowed everyone to admit their wrongdoings for Amnesty, and that’s how he has so far avoided getting sentenced. Do you sentence a guy to life and, in the process, lose what he has built, a clinic that helps those very much in need? I appreciate that it doesn’t have to be one or the other, but either way, it’s not a decision I’d like to make.
Introspection and reflection have always been a great journey in themselves. Go through ‘REFLECTION POST WEST AFRICA’ for a deeper understanding.
General Butt Naked
RELATED READ: A NAKED SWEDE AND ANGKOR WAT
PROVIDENCE ISLAND
On our way to West Point slum we stopped at what is probably Liberia’s most historic site. Providence island is where the slaves were repatriated when freed in America after the abolition of slavery. They would be shipped across the Atlantic and disembarked on this tiny island to begin their new life. Another bribe paid here.
FACTS ABOUT LIBERIA:
- Liberia, the sole Black state in Africa that was never colonized, has preserved its sovereignty unlike many African nations.
- Liberia, Africa’s oldest republic since 1821, was founded by the American Colonization Society as a homeland for freed African-American slaves, making it a unique historical entity with land acquired for this purpose.
- Ellen Johnson Sirleaf of Liberia, the first woman elected head of state in Africa, served as president from 2006 to 2018. Notably, she won the 2011 Nobel Peace Prize for her non-violent advocacy for women’s rights and peace-building efforts.
WEST POINT
West Point is Liberia’s biggest slum and an incredible network of alleys and passageways, which 70,000 people call their home. As you could expect, you could buy anything here, from burned DVDs to sweets made from soil. I thought this was a joke, but this stuff is genuinely taken from the ground and sold directly to the customer. It will be interesting to see how my stomach takes it!
Going through the village, there are cinemas (not your usual cinema), a business centre for documents and internet, and some low-key bars which we missed out on – Dayo from Ivory Coast wouldn’t be pleased!
ABOUT LIBERIA:
- LANGUAGE – Liberian English
- HELLO – Ya Hello-o
- HOW TO CHEERS – Cheers! Good Health!
- BEVERAGE OF CHOICE – Alcohol
- POPULAR SPORT – Soccer
- STAPLE DIET – Rice
DUCOR HOTEL
At Monrovia’s highest point you will see the Ducor Hotel, an old 5-star palace built in the 60s and then destroyed during the civil war. This is a reminder that Liberia was once a prosperous country until the proverbial shit hit the fan. Incredible views, but an absolute bollocks to get into.
As Liberia owed a significant amount of money to Libya. (Who even runs Libya?) They decided to gift some of its assets instead of trying to come up with the funds. So they swiftly moved the title into that of the Libyan African Company, which I assume will renovate it and receive a return from the operation of the hotel.
But anyway, because it is now owned by this company, you now need official permissions to gain entry. In the end, we got in but were forbidden to take photos or videos of myself in the hotel… bizarre.
Suggestions For Fellow Travelers
- Monrovia is a city of contrasts – expect chaos but embrace the unexpected surprises.
- Always respect local customs, especially when visiting sensitive places like rehab centers or historic sites.
- Stay vigilant in crowded areas like West Point slum; it’s vibrant but can be overwhelming.
- Try the local rice dishes, but be cautious when sampling street food like sweets made from soil!
- If visiting Ducor Hotel, secure permissions beforehand and be ready for restrictions on photography.
- Engage with locals – they are warm and often keen to share stories and show you around.
- Bring an open mind and a sense of adventure; Monrovia’s charm lies in its spirited resilience.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I thought that Monrovia was going to be one of the least exciting, most chilled but it was a good surprise, quite enjoyed the chaos.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
164/229
NEXT UP
The gold and diamond mines of Sierra Leone!! Click to read.
This post is part of The Midwest African Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at top of the page.

Question Time
- Would you like to visit a war lord?
- Do you like the flag of Liberia?
- What is your favourite country in West Africa?
Let me know in the comments below . . .