After spending time in Afghanistan, I had started to see a completely different side to the country. I’ll be honest, when most people hear “Afghanistan,” they picture conflict long before they picture culture, history, or everyday life.This part of the trip was less about major tourist attractions and more about the small moments, stopping at a tiny roadside flour mill, sharing watermelon with locals, and experiencing everyday life along the Afghan Ring Road. Afghanistan continued to surprise me, not just because of its landscapes and history, but because of the warmth and curiosity of the people I met along the way.
THE AFGHAN SERIES, DAYS 17 & 18
Kandahar – Helmand – Herat
Days 17 and 18 of my Afghan journey took me from Kandahar through Helmand and eventually to Herat along the Afghan Ring Road.
WHERE IS HELMAND?
Helmand
So today it was time to move on again and head further west into the heartland of the Taliban, Helmand province. Helmand has long been the hiding place for the Taliban and Al Qaeda for many reasons, but most notably its vastness, fertile soils, and proximity to their founding city of Kandahar.
Flour mill, super noodles and the Afghan Ring road
My Daily Info….
- HOTEL – Helmand Star ($40, 6/10) and Tejarat ($50, 7.5/10)
- RESTOS – Chahar Fasl
- FOOD – Super Noodles
- ATTRACTIONS – Flour mill, Bakery, Helmand gate / Qala-e-Bost, World’s first oven, Drive to Heart, Camp Bastian / Shorabak, Volley Ball on the ring road
- STEPS – 2,600, 7,200
MY STOP AT A ROADSIDE FLOUR MILL IN HELMAND
After just a few hours into the trip, we stopped off at a roadside mill. This wouldn’t be the huge factory mill we are familiar with in the West, but a tiny machine operated by just one man. My guide called to stop here, and he really seems to know my interests, without a doubt, the best guide for tailoring my trip as it progresses.
Not only was it interesting to see it in operation, but the people around were again at a different level of friendliness. Of course, a Taliban checkpoint stood across the road, but they were more than happy for me to film and even wanted to join us.
I’ve eaten almost every Afghan food, so it seemed like a good time to return the favour and bring out yesterday’s watermelon we bought, but after turning my head for 2 seconds, it was all gone. If you don’t eat fast in Afghanistan, you don’t eat!
Flour mill, super noodles and the Afghan Ring road
CAUGHT IN HELMAND FRIDAY RITUALS WITH NOTHING OPEN BUT MY ROOM
It’s Friday today, and with every Friday in the Muslim world comes the important Friday prayer. So, before lunch, almost every business and office will close to allow everyone to attend their preferred mosque.
Unfortunately, this also means the tourism office is closed, and any chance of getting the required permits is all but zero. So here I am, currently sitting in my cell-like room (beds, another shocker), absolutely bored out of my nut. If anything, it has given me an idea of what it must be like to be in prison. Might have been a good time to be sick!
Flour mill, super noodles and the Afghan Ring road
FACTS I LEARNED ABOUT HELMAND PROVINCE:
- Helmand Province, located in southern Afghanistan, is of significant strategic importance due to its location. It shares a border with Pakistan and Iran, making it a vital crossroads for regional trade and transit.
- Ancient civilisations, including the Achaemenid, Mauryan, and Kushan Empires, included the province. Various conquerors, including Alexander the Great and Arab invaders, have also influenced it. Helmand’s history is evident in its archaeological sites, including the famous ruins of the Bronze Age city of Shahr-e Sukhteh.
- The province is home to the Helmand River, one of the longest rivers in Afghanistan, which cuts through the desert region and supports the fertile lands in the area. The river plays a crucial role in irrigation, allowing for agricultural productivity.
DAY 18 BEGINS WITH A VISIT TO QALA-E-BOS
Qala-e-bost is a 3000-year-old city built along the Silk Road. Its main feature, however, is the 11th-century arch, which is one of the few remaining structures in the area after Genghis Khan destroyed it. Genghis destroyed much of the towns he came across in Afghanistan during the early 12 hundreds, especially those that he faced resistance from.
Flour mill, super noodles and the Afghan Ring road
RELATED READ: GETTING CHASED BY POLICE IN AUSTIN
THE STORY OF CAMP BASTIAN / SHORABAK
There have been some areas I was excited to visit, but the Taliban has a lot of these locked down. Camp Bastian was the largest British army base since WW2 and was the eyes and ears of all operations on this side of the Hindu Kush. After the ANA (Afghan National Army) took over it in 2014, they renamed it Camp Shorabak. However, when the Americans fled in 2021, they effectively handed a fully operable army base to the Taliban, who have controlled it ever since.
MY THOUGHTS ON A $2.3 TRILLION WAR AND THE UNFINISHED RING ROAD
The US war here cost an estimated $2.3 trillion, a number so vast it will mean very little to most, but to put it into perspective, $2.3T is $300 million every day for 20 years, an insane amount of money, considering what was achieved.
The ring road was one of America’s biggest investments at $ 3 billion and was never finished. It’s almost a symbol of the war, so much money spent and so little to show for it.
We were able to stop for a few minutes and enjoy some well-deserved downtime playing volleyball, one of Afghanistan’s national sports.
ENDING THE DAY IN HERAT WITH GREAT FOOD AND A GOOD BED
Finally, after another long day, we arrived in Herat and checked into a decent hotel (the bed got my approval) called Tejarat. But as my appetite was making a comeback, we ate at Chahar Fasl, which might be my favourite restaurant in Afghanistan!
QUICK TRAVEL TIPS & INSIGHTS FROM MY EXPERIENCE
- Engage with locals for authentic experiences.
- Prepare for checkpoints and limited tourism offices.
- Fridays can affect travel plans due to prayers and closures.
- Explore historical sites like Qala-e-Bost for cultural context.
- Carry cash for local purchases; ATMs are scarce in Helmand and Herat.
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective, and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube videos below.
FINAL THOUGHTS
As the trip draws to a close, I have started to really enjoy my interactions with locals. Not every country is like this so it takes a while to figure things out, but the people of Afghanistan couldn’t be more welcoming.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
159/229
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to travel through Helmand and Herat today?
I won’t sugarcoat it, travelling through Helmand is not something I will recommend without serious preparation and an experienced local guide. When I went through, Taliban checkpoints were frequent, but the interactions were, honestly, far calmer than I expected. That said, permits are hard to get, offices close on Fridays, and many areas remain restricted. I did say do your research, hire a trusted guide, and never assume access is guaranteed.
What was the Afghan Ring Road actually like to drive?
I found it to be a fascinating and slightly surreal experience. The road is long, often empty, and cuts through stunning desert landscape but it was never fully finished. At $3 billion invested by the Americans, seeing it unfinished feels like a very physical symbol of what the war left behind. Checkpoints appear regularly, so I kept my documents accessible at all times.
What food did you eat along the route from Helmand to Herat?
I ate super noodles at a local spot, nothing fancy, but it hit the spot after a long travel day. The real highlight was dinner at Chahar Fasl in Herat, where a massive platter of mixed grilled meats, kebabs, rice, and fresh salad arrived at the table. It might have been my favourite meal in all of Afghanistan.
How long does it take to drive from Kandahar to Herat via the Ring Road?
This leg took me across Days 17 and 18 with overnight stops, so it’s not a single-day drive. The distances are large, the road conditions vary, and checkpoint stops add time.
What is Qala-e-Bost and why is it worth visiting?
Qala-e-Bost is one of the most underrated historical sites I have visited anywhere in the world. It’s a 3,000-year-old city that sat along the ancient Silk Road, and its 11th-century arch is one of the few structures that survived Genghis Khan’s destruction in the early 1200s. Standing there above the Helmand River valley with almost no other tourists around made it genuinely special. If you make it to Helmand, don’t skip this.
Did it feel safe interacting with Taliban members during the trip?
Honestly, yes. The interactions I had at checkpoints and even at the flour mill were calm, sometimes curious, and occasionally friendly. They let me film. Even some wanted to be photographed, and they didn’t interfere with my visit to Qala-e-Bost. I always had my guide with me, which made a real difference. I’m not saying it’s without risk, but my experience was far removed from what most people imagine.
What hotels would I recommend in Helmand and Herat?
In Helmand, I stayed at the Helmand Star and would say it’s adequate but nothing more. In Herat, the Tejarat was genuinely comfortable. A proper bed, a clean bathroom, and a step up from what I’d experienced earlier in the trip.
NEXT UP
Citadels, camels, and rolling about in Herat, my last day in Afghanistan, then a night at Sleep & Fly Dubai!! Click to read.
This post was part of The Afghan Series. For the entire series, click here, or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip, head to my social channels: YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at the top of the page.
Question Time
- Are you interested in war history?
- Do you enjoy learning on holiday or do you prefer to rest the head?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
