PAKGHA SERIES, DAY 18 – 19
PESHAWAR – JALALABAD – TORA BORA – KABUL
Tora Bora Caves & did I convert to Islam? After over two weeks it was time to say goodbye the Pakistan.
BEING SURROUNDED BY 30 TALIBAN WHILE RECITING THE SHAHADA
It was a hell of a journey and the people are probably the best in the planet but I’m ready to move on.
WHERE IS TORKHAM?
Torkham
TORKHAM
We arrived at the Torkham border in good time ready for what I expect would be an uneventful crossing. How wrong I was.
The Pakistan side was mostly good apart from the odd customs official lashing out at some of the locals and porters, completely over the top but we are in tribal country and that’s the way it is. It was not uncommon to see the officials puncture the tyres of the portals trolleys, hard to watch!
Tora Bora Caves & did I convert to Islam?
AFGHAN SIDE
Then it was over to the Taliban who brought me into the room and gave me a few questions. Nothing wild but then they asked for my phone and started to go through my WhatsApp and photos. I don’t have anything to hide on these apps but the Taliban could create issue with even the most innocent of things.
He then went through the messages and photos between me and my old guide who runs a school here. He would often send me photos as an update and that means I have photos of classrooms, pupils and teachers. A sticky situation that really shouldn’t be.
Tora Bora Caves & did I convert to Islam?
FLAG….
- THE EMBLEM – Typically in white, features a mosque with a mihrab facing Mecca, symbolizing Islam, the primary religion in Afghanistan. Around the mosque are sheaves of wheat, indicating the agricultural foundation of Afghanistan’s economy.
- RED – Symbolizes the bloodshed and sacrifices made by Afghans for independence and freedom.
- GREEN – Represents hope, prosperity, and a peaceful future for the country.
- BLACK – Represents Afghanistan’s troubled past and struggles under occupation and hardships.
OLD FRIENDS
Eventually I was out and after telling a few young pick pockets to do one I arrived into Jalalabad and headed straight for the gun market. I had been here previously and got talking to a few of the shop owners and straight away they recognised me and introduced themselves.
I couldn’t believe it after only talking to them for a short time almost 18months ago. They did however say they remembered me because of the conversations we had, including one about the famous Northern Irish cricketer, Paul Sterling!
Tora Bora Caves & did I convert to Islam?
RELATED READ: INTERROGATED AND STRIP SEARCHED IN ISRAEL
TURBAN
I usually like to get myself involved in the local culture of habits and what better way then getting myself a turban, to fit right in with the locals. It took a few goes getting it right but eventually a local Taliban came over and helped me out. Walking around the market with this on certainly gave locals something to stare at!
ABOUT THE COUNTRY:
- LANGUAGE – Afghanistan has two official languages: Dari (a dialect of Persian) and Pashto.
- HELLO – “Salam”
- HOW TO CHEERS – Toasting with alcoholic beverages isn’t part of Afghan tradition, as alcohol is generally forbidden. However, to express goodwill or celebrate with tea (the common drink), people might say “Shaheed-e-Dil.”
- BEVERAGE OF CHOICE – Tea, especially green tea and black tea.
- POPULAR SPORT – Buzkashi, a unique and intense game where horse-mounted players compete to grab a goat carcass and carry it to a goal. Cricket and soccer are also widely played.
- STAPLE DIET – Afghan cuisine centers around rice and bread.
DAY 19
Today I was ticking something at the very top of my bucket list, the Tora Bora Caves. This was the place where Osama Bin Laden called home before fleeing into Pakistan.
WILDEST EXPERIENCE TO DATE
This was all charming until I reached the main checkpoint at the mountains where we went inside the most fortified compound I have seen. Again my local Taliban escort mentioned to the commander about my conversions and I was brought into the room to recite the Shahada again.
The room must’ve had around 30 people in it, who all seemed genuinely happy and proud. I can’t even joke about the experience because I was treated with such respect.
TORA BORA
Anyway, eventually we made it to the Tora Bora and I could see why OBL used this as his hideout. There was no way the US Military were getting here without his knowledge. Any sort of recce would also prove impossible due to its remote location and limited inhabitants.
I got talking to someone who was here during the time and OBL apparently integrated rather well, playing volleyball with the locals and living just like anyone else. Surprising when you know he came from a billionaire family.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Well the Tora Bora did not disappoint and neither did my so called conversion to Islam. Any mention of these to a Taliban soldier puts me straight into the good books.
NEXT UP
A few days touring around Afghanistan before heading back home!! Click to read.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
This post is part of the Pakghan Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To see more photos or videos of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok.
