THE PAKGHAN SERIES, DAY 20 – 23
KABUL – BAMIYAN – KABUL
Making friends with the Taliban. First things first, on our way to Bamiyan, and that’s a shave.
PROBABLY SHOULDN’T BE SAYING THIS BUT I CAN’T WAIT FOR HOME
I do enjoy getting a street shave every so often just for the experience. Probably risking it all, but sure!
Moments like these often spark conversations with locals and fellow travellers, which made me think about the the idea of Afghan friends and how unexpected cultural encounters can shape your perspective of the country.
WHERE IS BAMIYAN?
Bamiyan
If someone were to ask me what the worst thing about Afghanistan is, without question, it has to be the traffic, driving, and the roads. You don’t actually need a driver’s license to drive here, and it really shows. Everyone drives like a woman! Joking, ladies, it’s actually quite ironic as women aren’t allowed to drive!
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL – Gohgola, Bamiyan 7.5/10
- LANDMARK – Kabul 7/10
ATTRACTIONS –
- Scream City
- Buddhas
- Women’s Market
- Bande Amir
- Chicken Street
- Kabul Flag
CITY OF SCREAMS
Once we arrived at Bamiyan, we stopped off at the City of Screams. A place where Genghis Khan did his usual shenanigans, killed all the men, raped the women, that sort of stuff. It was said the screams of the locals were heard throughout the region, and it has been called the City of Screams ever since.
Making friends with the Taliban
BUDDHAS OF BAMIYAN
One of Afghanistan’s most important landmarks and tragic stories is the Buddha’s of Bamiyan. Carved out of the sandstone cliff almost 1,400 years ago, these were part of the Buddhist movement that began all the way in India.
Eventually, in 2001, the founder and leader of the Taliban, Mullah Omar, demanded that they be destroyed. Within a few days, 1,400 years of history were gone. Six months later, the U.S. military invaded Afghanistan, and the War on Terror began.
Making friends with the Taliban
WOMAN’S MARKET
No matter who you ask, you always get a different answer on the topic of women’s rights. But there is no dispute that it is far from ideal. However, Bamiyan is known as the liberal capital of Afghanistan. There isn’t much competition in that realm, but it does have a women-only bazaar, where all shops and stalls are owned and operated by women.
Indirectly, this market is responsible for employing hundreds of women, whether in the shop or making the products. It’s refreshing to hear this, but still Afghanistan has a long way to go.
Making friends with the Taliban
RELATED READ: GETTING INSIDE THE ANCIENT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA
DAY 21, BANDE AMIR
This morning we headed to one of the best landscapes in the world, Bande Amir National Park. I have no doubt that if this were in America or Europe, it would be teeming with tourists and likely be surrounded by KFCs and McDonald’s. Thankfully, it’s not, and during both times I have visited, I have been the only tourist here.
Everything from the rock formations and snow-capped mountains to the colour of the water makes this place entirely unique.
Making friends with the Taliban
FACTS ABOUT KABUL:
- Kabul has seen several power shifts over the years, most notably the rapid takeover by the Taliban in 2021 after the withdrawal of U.S. forces, marking the end of a 20-year conflict led by NATO and the U.S.
- The war has had devastating consequences for civilians. Thousands have lost their lives, with families facing displacement, restricted access to basic necessities, and a significant impact on women’s rights.
- Afghanistan, especially areas around Kabul, has historically been one of the world’s largest opium producers. Conflict has fueled this economy as both the Taliban and other groups have relied on drug trafficking to fund their activities.
KABUL
It was another 6-hour journey back to Kabul for a quick bite in my favourite restaurant in Afghanistan.
DAY 22, KABUL
Our last day of the trip, and if I am completely honest, I’ve been running on fumes for the past week. Trips of this length and intensity take their toll, and I usually spend the next while on autopilot. Going forward, unless I’m somewhere I can relax for a few days, trips will have to be no longer than 2 weeks.
PERMITS
Permits are a big part of travelling through Afghanistan, and we experienced the bureaucracy first-hand today. We were heading to a park about an hour from the centre of Kabul. It ended up a waste of time anyway, but in no time, we had the Taliban approach us and ask for papers and to wait for their commander.
The commander wasn’t happy with the permit we had, as he was convinced it didn’t cover that specific area, even though our permit covered Kabul.
He then asked to see my phone, and I had to endure another stint of someone going through my photos. If you want to feel paranoid, then let the Taliban go through your phone! I don’t know what was being said between my guide and the Taliban, but eventually, I said, “Let’s go,” turned around, and walked off.
AFGHANISTAN FRIENDS: HOLDING HANDS WITH THE TALIBAN
Back in Kabul, I wandered through the market to see what we could find, and in no time, a Taliban soldier approached me with a huge smile. He insisted I join him for tea, and we spent an hour drinking tea and discussing many things I had always wanted to ask the Taliban. It’s incredible how friendly someone holding an M4 can be, as he bought me an unlimited amount of sweets!
This experience perfectly answers the question “Does Afghanistan have friends?” The answer is absolutely yes. Despite the complex political situation, Afghan-style friendship Afghanistan style is warm, genuine, and hospitable.
My Afghanistan friends – from local shopkeepers to Taliban soldiers – showed me incredible kindness and openness that challenged every preconception.
KABUL FLAG
No trip to Kabul is complete without visiting the giant flag monument. This is where many locals gather after work to meet friends and socialize. It is by far the best place to meet people and make Afghan friends.
I was asked to recite the Shahada again, and although I initially declined because I wanted to learn it properly before saying it publicly, they responded with, “We will help you.”
How could you say no to that? I managed to say it correctly, and then they wanted me to do it again. You’ve got to love these people. This is what friendship in Afghanistan is all about – strangers becoming friends over tea and conversation.
9/11 CARPETS
To end the day, we headed back to Chicken Street as I wanted a special memento. This street is famous for gems and carpets — but not ordinary carpets.
Hidden away in some first-floor room is an interesting choice of 9/11 carpets designed in memory of Afghanistan’s recent past. The carpets feature everything from AK-47s and Hummers to the planes hitting the Twin Towers.
Insider Tips Before Visiting Afghanistan
- Always carry multiple copies of your permits and passport while traveling between cities.
- Learn a few basic local greetings, as simple conversations often lead to warm hospitality.
- Dress modestly and respectfully to avoid unwanted attention in conservative areas.
- Avoid photographing security checkpoints, soldiers, or government buildings without permission.
- Keep your phone gallery clean and organized, as random checks can happen unexpectedly.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Finally, that’s another series done, and if I’m honest, I’m exhausted. I’ve been drained for the last 10 days, so I can’t wait to get home and get back into a routine.
So, does Afghanistan have friends? Without a doubt, yes. The friendship Afghanistan offers is unlike anywhere else I’ve traveled. My Afghan friends—from Taliban soldiers sharing tea to locals helping me recite prayers at the flag monument—showed me a side of the country you’ll never see on the news.
The warmth, hospitality, and genuine human connection I experienced here challenged every preconception and reminded me why I travel.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
NEXT UP
Heading to Syria after the Assad Regime got toppled. Click to read.
This post is part of the Pakghan Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
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