DRIVING INTO SYRIA21 min read

THE SYRIAN SERIES, DAY 2

BEIRUT – AL MASHTAYAH

Driving into Syria. The day has finally come, I’m on my way, and I’m beyond stoked for it.

WELCOME TO SYRIA

It’s been three long years since I first toyed with the idea of visiting here, and many times I thought it just wasn’t going to be.

Obviously, there was the civil war, which is still ongoing in certain regions, but COVID, as usual, played a big role in delaying the trip. Fear not 😬 I am here now! Welcome to Syria!

WHERE IS SYRIA?

Syria

THROUGH THE DAHR AL-BAYDAR

After being picked up from my hotel, we made our way through the Lebanese Mountains (the pass of Ḍahr al-Baydar). After a quick Arabic espresso (strong coffee and military checkpoints not the best mix!), we reached the Lebanese border. After meeting a few young Syrians who were keen to earn a few ££ as porters, you soon learned they couldn’t speak a word of English.

“That’s our future,” said an older local with a hopeless look.

Bless the kid, he’s not had a chance and has just been through probably the worst civil war of our generation, but funny humor all the same

TO THE SYRIAN BORDER

There’s a 10 km drive between the two borders (wild!), and I’ve never felt so excited! All these trips can, at times, take the fun out of traveling, like when you don’t get the same energy or anxiety crossing a border —you know you’ve visited too many risky places. But driving in Syria had this —I could feel it here. I was well and truly in the moment!

I then made my way to Damascus, where I met Khaldoun (Golden Target), the gent who arranged my visa, trip, and now my money; this wouldn’t have been possible without him. However, exchanging the money in the corner of the Sheraton Hotel was a bit suspect.

SEYDNAIA

After a quick chill, I headed out to our first stop, Monastery of Seydnaia, where we listened to a prayer from one of the nuns. All churches and mosques are incredibly well-kept, a stark contrast to the streets outside.

OILY MARY

I wouldn’t be the most religious person, but the views from the top were a highlight. With such a history comes many bizarre tales. One of which I heard at the bottom of the stairs, where a column of rebar was assembled. “Word is” that someone left their bottle of oil at this very spot, and upon lifting it, a figure of the Virgin Mary appeared. It’s still here, as you can see, and I’m no one to say it didn’t happen, but I’ll let you make up your own mind.

SERGUS BACHUS

At the top of Malula, we stopped at Sergius and Bacchus, a small church whose dome was damaged during the civil war. Some of the repair work here is just incredible —I couldn’t tell what was new and what was old! Before going, we listened to a prayer in Aramaic, a language now spoken only in 3 towns here.

Driving into Syria

EFFECTS FROM THE WAR

After some Shish Tawook at La Grotta, we then took a walk to the Gap of Malula. It was here, right beside the restaurant, that I noticed the first effects of the civil war. There’s something strange about eating your Tawook while looking at a building and a children’s playground riddled with bullets. As we walked towards the entry of the gap, we could see heaps of potholes. But naturally, they were the effects of explosive fire; mortar rounds, missiles, or RPGs  crazy!

Driving into Syria

GAP OF MALULA

The gap of Malula was something special and very similar to Petra’s corridor in Jordan and Antelope Canyon in the U.S. The corridor was carved by centuries of water erosion, but more recently, a pipe installation has allowed locals and tourists to walk the path.

Driving into Syria

SAINT TAKLA (THECLA)

It’s still only day one, but I’m already beginning to become overwhelmed by the number of churches and mosques, and I know there’s plenty more to come.

At the bottom of the gap, we arrived at the town of Malula and checked out the Monastery of Saint Takla.

Driving into Syria

SAINT TAKLA’S STORY

Takla was a young girl (18) from Qalamoun. Like many, she was to be involved in an arranged marriage, set up by her father to a Pagan. But as Takla wanted to be a Christian, she fled, and word has it, Roman soldiers chased her through the mountain ranges all the way to Malula. Here she encountered a problem: the path was blocked by a huge rock face, so she knelt to pray.

Like a miracle (obviously), the rock split (creating the Malula gap), and she avoided capture and death, continuing her journey. She then spent the rest of her days in the grotto preaching Christian faith and healing the sick from the natural spring she dug into. At the tender age of 90, she passed away and was buried in the same grotto. There is an interesting apricot tree that goes through this same building. Make of that what you wish!

CHURCH OF SAINT TAKLA

Just below the tomb is the Church of Saint Takla, another victim of the civil war, which has also been restored. It seems the effort and attention are always on the religious monuments here; other things might be light-years behind the rest of the world, but a church will never be left in disrepair for too long!

Driving into Syria

AL MASHTAYAH

Our last stop today is the town of Al Mashtayah, where we will rest our heads at the Al Wadi hotel before visiting Krak des Chevaliers in the morning, another of Syria’s highlights. I’ll be doing well to top today!

Driving into Syria

FINAL THOUGHTS

I’m getting an absolute education here 😬

NEXT UP

Driving in Syria further leads to Krak des Chevaliers and a night by the Mediterranean Sea!!

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
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Driving in Syria is a part of The Syrian Series, which begins with Why am I going to Syria.

To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.