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THE SYRIA SERIES, DAY 5
ALEPPO
Since I was spending two nights in Aleppo, it felt good not to be constantly on the move. I planned nothing more than a long wander through the city, its ancient stones, crowded markets, and quiet corners. But Aleppo had its own plans, offering unexpected kindness and new friends who shaped the entire day.
FOR THE SYRIAN PEOPLE; IT’S NOT IF THEY HAVE ENOUGH TO GIVE, ITS THAT THEY GIVE WHAT THEY HAVE.
Today I was to take a 6-hour walk around Aleppo to check out everything from the Bazaar to the Citadel, and it was clear why this country was so popular before the war.
WHERE IS ALEPPO?
Aleppo
THE MUSEUM OF ALEPPO
I’ll be honest, I am not one for museums, the pottery, or the artifacts type, but the museum of Aleppo, which was very much untouched during the war, is small and worthwhile. I was pointed over to a child’s skeleton, which dated back to 40,000 – 100,000 years ago. These dates just blow my mind! It was discovered in the Dereary Cave, close to the Turkish border, and dates back to the Neanderthal period. And if you thought toys were a thing only our generation had the privilege of having, you’d be mistaken. There were animal models that dated back over 5,000 years. My nieces play with animal figures, so we haven’t come that far since then 😬. No photos allowed, unfortunately 😉
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL – Aleppo Palace Hotel 7/10
- RESTAURANT –
Ammo Hamid
Another killer Falafel
Pickled salad
Ayran Yogurt
- ATTRACTIONS –
Bazaar
Museum of Aleppo
Aleppo Mosque
Aleppo Citidel
THE BAZAAR
After a walk past some seriously oily street food, we headed to the bazaar, where I was approached by a local who had a message: ” What you see about Syria in the west is not what it is about”, and that he was right. The benefits of having a guide and translator in one means you don’t miss out on this kind of conversation!
The Bazaar is going through an extensive refurb after a lot of it was destroyed during the war. Seeing it at every stage of development was incredible, as it gives you an idea of the work that goes into rebuilding these places. Much of it is still rubble, and the work will likely continue for years.
A day in Aleppo and generosity of new friends
DAILY TRAVEL STATS….
- Steps – 23,700
GRAND MOSQUE OF ALEPPO
Another landmark that became a victim of the war was the city’s largest mosque, originally built in 700AD. Its minaret was destroyed because it offered a perfect vantage point for snipers overlooking the entire city. Renovations were still underway, so visitors normally couldn’t enter. However, in our case, a member of the military invited us in – it really depends on who you talk to. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed.
| Did You Know? The Grand Mosque, also known as the Great Umayyad Mosque of Aleppo, is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the oldest mosques in Syria. |
REBUILDING WHAT WAS LOST
The plan was originally to restore the minaret with the same blocks in the same place, a bit like Humpty Dumpty! However, unsurprisingly, this proved impossible, and they will instead do what they can to make it as it was. It’s slow work as we watch the workers go from block to block and decide which one to use. The skills of these trades are super impressive!
Refurbishment also continues inside the mosque; however, these areas were only partially destroyed. The mosque is home to the Tomb of Zachary, the son of Saint John the Baptist, whose tomb is in Damascus.
RELATED READ: THE GREATEST HIKE ON EARTH?
CITADEL OF ALEPPO
After some Mouhara (spicy bread) and a chat with the local coffee man, it was onto the Aleppo Citadel, the most impressive castle I have ever seen!
Dating back to 3000BC, it’s no surprise that Aleppo is home to the oldest citadel in the world, and a surprising fact is that no one is sure who built the 40,000ft2 beast!
Many civilisations have occupied it since its inception, and most of its construction as it is today is thought to originate from the Ayyubid period. Although it appears to be in good condition, the citadel suffered significant damage during the civil war when the army occupied it and was continually attacked by the rebels.
FACTS:
- Aleppo is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
- Aleppo is Syria’s largest city by population, followed by the capital city, Damascus.
- Aleppo’s citadel is considered one of the most striking examples of medieval Islamic architecture preserved into the 21st century.
- Aleppo’s history stretches back over 4,000 years, with a succession of civilisations, including Hittite, Greek, Roman and Ayyubid, leaving their mark on the city over the centuries.
TUNNEL ATTACKS
As the army held the castle, it was bombarded with attacks from every side. The rebels, struggling to make progress, decided to dig underneath the castle and launch an attack from there. However, on four separate occasions, the rebels miscalculated and blew up a 4-star hotel, two mosques, and another building.
NEW FRIENDS
It was here that I walked around a bit on my own and had some young locals offer to take me for a coffee. So we arranged to meet up later and swapped numbers.
Meeting locals is an important part of visiting a new country for me, but sometimes, when you are with a guide, it can be difficult, as the guide isn’t always accepting, and this one in particular. I’m not sure if it was because he didn’t want me to be annoyed or whether he just didn’t want it himself. His knowledge is second to none, however.
TEA AND SISHA
I met up with Jed and Age at Aleppo Square and headed to have some tea and sisha. There are no bars or clubs, so cafes are open at all hours as this is their way of socialising.
We sat outside (we all agreed people watching is too much fun to miss) and spoke about a lot…and I mean a lot! Jed and Age weren’t shy about answering the upfront questions I had, and it was incredible to hear the opinion of someone beyond my guide, especially of this age, as most of their childhood was spent during the war.
As before, you can only get so much info, but talking to different people gives a different perspective, and I was shocked yet intrigued about what they had to say.
MANBIJ
I was shocked to hear Jed had to leave Aleppo and flee north to Manbij, a town near the border of Turkey. This city changed hands more times than most. It was first captured by rebels before being taken by ISIS and then eventually by the SDF. After this, the US military occupied it before Russia and Syria regained control.
WHIPPED
Jed was here for 2 years and saw it all. He mentioned that anytime there was a disagreement or someone broke the law, against which ISIS believes, then everyone in the area would be asked to watch the punishment. He himself was lucky to stay alive.
In some strict Muslim faiths (ISIS), they are not allowed to talk to women outside of their family. However, Jed, after talking to his mum, walked off and was approached by several men representing ISIS who demanded to know why he was talking to a woman.
He pleaded that it was his mum, but as she was wearing a full burka, he no longer knew which one she was. He was then pushed into a car and taken for a session of whips; he was lucky it wasn’t worse.
KINDNESS
I’m a bit ashamed to admit it, but this pair didn’t allow me to pay for a thing! And every time, they managed to arrange the bill without me knowing. Here in Aleppo, it’s not about having enough to give; it’s about giving what you have. Much different from my guide and driver 😆.
GENERATORS
The guys were telling me that there is a huge infrastructure problem here with electricity, with only a few hours of power available per day. This is due to the damage to the main power station and sanctions, which make it difficult to repair. To maintain power, every street has several generators (the noise is insane) running all day on diesel…not cheap either!
SUMMED UP….
- HIGHLIGHT – Three hours chilling and talking with new friends
- LOWLIGHT – Hearing what people have went through!
- MVP – Jed & Age, the locals who bought me dinner, tea and sisha!
- SPECIAL MENTION – Rama. The young girl who had nothing and wished to give me her gift.
For something totally different but just as memorable, you can read The Greatest Hike on Earth, a trip that tested me in all the best ways. |
FURTHER KINDNESS
After admitting I was hungry and raving about how good the falafel in Aleppo had been the day before, Jed and Age took me to Ammo Hamid (Uncle Hamid). This restaurant is special and a bit of an institution here in Aleppo. They have a sign that reads; If you have no money, then you eat for free! I know the food doesn’t cost much, but no one has much here, and to help and support each other as they do makes me wonder if I do enough myself sometimes.
RAMA
We were then approached by a young, pleasant girl selling candy floss. Usually, I ignore these requests, as they happen everywhere you go; yet, she was incredibly pleasant, even though she couldn’t speak English, apart from the word ‘one’. Jed and Age said this was her way of asking me to count from 1 to 10 so she could learn.
12 GOING ON 32
She was way beyond her years, and after seeing Jed and Age get money out to hand to her, I asked if I could instead. “A lot of kids are left living on the street without parents or a family, so we try to help each other.”
I gave her money, but she wouldn’t leave. She clearly didn’t want more as she was just keen to talk, and sometimes that was hard without coming out in a huge grin! Anyway, eventually we moved on to eat Aleppo’s falafel, which again Age paid for (they weren’t even eating!).
A GIFT
Later, Rama came over to give me her candy floss, and as I asked, ‘How much?’ She refused and said it was a gift.
Obviously, this was all translated through Jed and Age. It was here that I learned the second English word she knew after I told her to take it back, a very stern “no!”. It would have worked a treat if she hadn’t come out in a fit of giggles, but from then on, she walked off, leaving the candy floss with Jed.
It’s times like these which just show you the true character of people. Young people are taught to share, but it can be challenging at times. However, for someone so young to be as generous as this amazed me! Obviously, she was given her candy floss back with another paper gift.
FINAL THOUGHTS
What a day in Aleppo! It surpassed my wildest expectations, and unless I win the lottery while I’m here, it will be the best experience of the trip.
FAQs
Who named Aleppo?
Aleppo’s name comes from its ancient Arabic name Halab, with origins likely in early Semitic languages. Over time, Greeks called it Beroea, and the English name “Aleppo” emerged later through medieval trade and European transliteration.
What is Aleppo famous for?
Aleppo is famous for being one of the world’s oldest lived-in cities, its dramatic citadel, bustling souqs, and deep, layered history. It’s known for warm local hospitality, incredible food like falafel and kibbeh, and resilient communities rebuilding after years of conflict.
What is the cuisine of Aleppo?
Aleppine food is big on flavour, like bold spices, olive oil, nuts, and slow-cooked dishes. The city is celebrated for its signature kebabs, endless kinds of kibbeh, hearty stews, and those unforgettable pistachio desserts.
What is the significance of the city of Aleppo?
Aleppo matters because it’s one of humanity’s oldest cities, a former powerhouse on the Silk Road, and Syria’s biggest pre-war hub. Its ancient architecture and cultural mix tell the story of countless civilisations passing through.
What language is spoken in Aleppo?
People in Aleppo mainly speak Arabic, specifically the Aleppine dialect. But you’ll also hear Kurdish, Armenian, and Syriac in different neighbourhoods, thanks to the city’s long, diverse cultural history.
What is Aleppo’s most famous dish?
If Aleppo is known for one thing on the table, it’s kibbeh. The city has created more than a dozen unique versions, each packed with spices, nuts, and flavours that make Aleppine cuisine stand out.
NEXT UP: GOODBYE ALEPPO, HELLO HAMA!
After wrapping up my adventure in Aleppo, the road led straight to exploring Hama for a day, with a fresh set of stories.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
152/229
This post is part of The Syrian Series. You can explore the entire series or start from Episode 1 to follow the journey from the beginning.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
Question Time
- Do you enjoy meeting locals while travelling?
- Are you ok with putting your safety and trust in people you don’t know?
- How do you decide when people are trustworthy?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
