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THE SYRIAN SERIES, DAY 7

HAMA – PALMYRA – DAMASCUS

The ruined ruins of Palmyra. After the usual greeting of “I Love You” by the young waiters (they even came into my room🤣), I quickly jumped out of the hotel for a morning walk. Following this refreshing start, it was off to the ancient city of Palmyra, which I have been told is a highlight of anyone’s trip to Syria. How many highlights can one country have?

I’D EXPECT LESS DEVASTATION DURING WORLD WAR 2

We anticipated a long day ahead as we headed through Homs. Although we decided not to stop, the city offered plenty to see.

WHERE IS PALMYRA?

Palmyra

HOMS

Homs was among the worst-hit cities in Syria. In addition to the devastation, the government faced a significant struggle to maintain control. This battle, spanning from 2011 to 2014, drew surreal comparisons to the aftermath of World War II.

Even though the rebels were completely outnumbered and surrounded, they had the advantage of blending in with the local population, enabling them to launch surprise attacks. As a result, checkpoints frequently became targets, leading the Syrian Army to respond with drone strikes.

DAILY INFO….

  • HOTEL – Beit Al Mamlouka 9/10 (incredible costumer service again!)
  • RESTAURANT – Chicken Hut 😬
  • FOOD – Shawarma 7/10
  • ATTRACTIONS –

Homs devastation
Palmyra new town
Palmyra museum
Palmyra old town

SIEGE OF HOMS

The rebels inflicted casualties that far outweighed those suffered by the army. Despite no one knowing the exact number of active rebel units, the death toll climbed to 2,000, with an additional 5,000 captured.

In light of these figures, it’s easy to wonder how the rebels thought they stood a chance against an army boasting 10,000 troops and 250 tanks. However, the urban landscape turned the battle into a cat-and-mouse game. With the army needing to stay visible and the rebels relying on a strategy of hiding and ambush, it was clear that neither side would find it easy to gain a decisive advantage.

The ruined ruins of Palmyra

DAILY TRAVEL STATS….

  • Steps – 15,600
  • Miles covered – 291.2m

TACTICAL WARFARE 

Recognizing this, they decided to deploy militias to the frontline, aiming to catch the rebels off guard. In response, they decided to deploy militias to the frontline, aiming to catch the rebels off guard. This strategy allowed them to turn the tables and engage the rebels using their own tactics.

THE ENTIRE TEMPLE WAS BLOWN UP BY ISIS

REPOPULATION

As you move further from Aleppo, the towns become increasingly populated, with more people feeling safe enough to leave the city. This shift has been a welcome sight, marking a positive change from the past. Slowly but surely, life is beginning to return to normal.

 RELATED READ: SKYDIVING OVER HAWAII

LONG ROAD TO PALMYRA

Palmyra is still far from a typical tourist destination, largely because it was one of the last strongholds held by ISIS. As a result, regular patrols and checkpoints are necessary to ensure security. In fact, visitors must obtain special permission, which is checked at every stop along the way.

For Syrians, the journey might feel monotonous. However, for a tourist gazing out at the barren landscape for 2 hours and 30 minutes, it was strangely captivating.

The ruined ruins of Palmyra

  FACTS:
  • Under the Roman emperor Tiberius (r. 14–37 A.D.), Tadmor was incorporated into the province of Syria and assumed the name Palmyra, or “place of palms.”
  • Located in the Syrian desert northeast of Damascus, Palmyra is an oasis.
  • Once called the “Pearl of the desert,” Palmyra, famous for its well-preserved Greco-Roman ruins, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980, renowned for its unique blend of Greek, Roman, Persian, and Islamic cultures.

TANKS AND TECHNICAL

As we approached Palmyra, the destruction became more pronounced, along with an increase in checkpoints. To my surprise, the sheer number of Russian tanks and Syrian technical vehicles was overwhelming. These technical vehicles, resembling those used by rebels, are essentially pickup trucks outfitted with mounted machine guns. Racing through the deserted towns, with a gunner perched on the back, they looked ready to spring into action at any moment. The whole scene felt like something straight out of Black Hawk Down.

Man with machine gun on a truck in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra

PALMYRA NEW TOWN

Palmyra, another town left in ruins, was one of the last ISIS strongholds. Its remote location made it especially difficult for residents to escape during the conflict. When we visited, walking through the museum was particularly unsettling, knowing it had once been occupied by ISIS. Thankfully, the government had managed to save most of the artifacts before the rebels seized the town.

The ruined ruins of Palmyra

PALMYRA

As you drive into the old town, the sheer scale of this place becomes immediately apparent. It’s only in my 30s that I’ve come to truly appreciate such awe-inspiring sights—way too late, in my opinion. Palmyra, an ancient Semitic city, dates back to 3000 BC and has witnessed numerous power shifts over the centuries, eventually becoming part of the Roman Empire in 100 AD.

Emperor Aurelian destroyed the city after the creation of the Palmyrene Empire in 273. Later, Diocletian took on the task of rebuilding it. By the fourth century, the Palmyrenes had converted to Christianity, and several centuries later, to Islam. With these religious shifts came linguistic changes, as Greek and Palmyrene gave way to Arabic.

David Simpson standing at ruins in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra

The ruined ruins of Palmyra

BAAL TEMPLE / TEMPLE OF BEL

Like much of Syria, Baal Temple has endured a tragic recent history. After Palmyra fell twice to ISIS, the temple became a target due to its Christian heritage. As a result, ISIS almost completely destroyed the cellar, which was part of the 40,000m² structure. The devastation is profound, and experts fear that what remains of the temple is likely to collapse in the near future.

Temple of Bell on a sunny day in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra

Before ISIS

Ruins in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra
Ampitheater ruins in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra

THE GENERAL

Although it’s considered safe to visit, having an armed guard is mandatory. To our surprise, we were accompanied by none other than the army’s general! This made passing through checkpoints a breeze, as soldiers immediately saluted when they recognized who was in the car. At one particular checkpoint, however, a guard overheard that I was from Ireland and eagerly asked if I supported the Irish football team. Of course, you’ve got to play along and say yes! After that quick exchange, we continued on our way to Damascus.

David Simpson and local soldiers standing at ruins in Palmyra, Syria. The ruined ruins of Palmyra

BEIT AL MAMLOUKA

Tonight’s hotel turned out to be a delightful surprise. Mamlouka, a small boutique establishment, offers exceptional customer service. When I inquired about dinner options, Lauren, one of the managers, actually took me into the kitchen to sample everything they had. Among the dishes was ataief asafiri (qatayef asafiri), filled with thick yogurt, cream, and jam. On top of that, I discovered that Syrians are serious food lovers!

SUMMED UP….

  • HIGHLIGHT – Palmyra
  • LOWLIGHT – The destruction of the old city by ISIS.
  • MVP – The people at Mamlouka hotel.

FINAL THOUGHTS

It doesn’t get easier seeing the devastation but it’s incredible how the Syrian people continue to hold themselves after what they have gone through.

NEXT UP

A day checking out Damascus!! Click to read.

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
152/229

This post is part of The Syrian Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.

To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.

Question Time

  • Have you been to Palmyra?
  • Do you enjoy Roman ruins?

Let me know in the comments below . . .

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A DAY IN HAMA, SYRIA
A DAY IN DAMASCUS

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4 Comments. Leave new

  • Lignon Nguyen
    13/10/2022 8:55 am

    My husband and me were in Syria with my best friend Lebanese in medical university ( Paris)
    Before the war, we visit Damascus,Alep, Palmyre…
    She speak and understand Arab language
    So it very easy to us to discover this country

    Reply
    • Avatar photo
      David Simpson
      14/10/2022 10:28 am

      Hi! I would have loved to have visited before the war, it would have been a different place back then! Would you revisit?

      Reply
  • Oh my god…your pictures made me cry! You captured so beautiful and precious moments of daily life. My family is from Syria but i was born and grew up in Germany. I visited my big Family in Syria in the Summer some Times. Family members would come from everywhere (outside Syria)and we all used to meet and stay at my grandmother’s house. I Loved that and i Miss IT so much!!! I feel a deep Connection to the people and the country and I felt that again while watching your beautiful Pictures!!! The Last Time i was there was in 2009…before this devastating war. I Wish you would have Seen IT before war…thank you for visiting Syria and Sharing your experience with US 🙂
    Shukran wa Ma3 a’salame akhi David!

    Mona

    Reply
    • Avatar photo
      David Simpson
      27/09/2024 7:37 am

      Alaikum asalam Mona!
      The place and its people were super special, I can completely understand how you felt the connection and miss it, even I miss it and I have no history or family which connects me to it. The place really gave me a lesson on how to treat people.

      I am gutted you havent been in so long, you must return soon?
      Best, David

      Reply

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