WHAT’S THE KRAK IN SYRIA13 min read

THE SYRIAN SERIES, DAY 3

AL MASHTAYAH – LATAKIA

What’s the Krak in Syria. Before that though we took the short drive over to St George’s Monastry where we were given the pleasure of watching Sundays service but on a Saturday…

THE DATES THAT ARE BEING SAID HERE MAKE EUROPE SOUND LIKE IT WAS FOUNDED YESTERDAY!

We had planned to visit the 2 other churches, one built in 300AD and the other in the 1700s. Unfortunately both are closed when there is a service so it’s off to Krak des Chevaliers.

WHERE IS KRAK DES CHEVALIERS?

Krak des Cheviliers

ST GEORGES MONASTERY

Apparently the original monastery was constructed by the Byzantine’s over the remains of a statue of the god Homerus. A newer church was then built in the 1700s and a further church again built at the top (1850) which is the only one still used to this day.

OLD RESTAURANTS

Before heading into the castle, we drove just a few hundred yards beyond and visited the ruins of an old restaurant. This was in fact the restaurant where I would have visited before the war, it was an incredible shame as it had the best views of the castle.

What’s the Krak in Syria

KRAK DES CHEVALIERS

First inhabited by the Kurds in 1030, the castle remained under their control until 1142, when it was handed over to the Knights of St. John (the Hospitallers) by Raymond II of Tripoli. Designed to accommodate up to 2,000 people, the fortress was never fully occupied despite its immense scale and strategic importance.

In the 1270s, the castle fell to the Mamlūk Sultan Baybars, not through brute force but deception. Using a forged letter, allegedly from the Hospitallers’ Grand Master, Baybars convinced the garrison to surrender — a surprisingly effective and, frankly, sneaky end to one of the most formidable Crusader strongholds.

What’s the Krak in Syria

AMRIT

Founded around 3000 BC — yes, 3000 BC (a timeline that still amazes me) — the site was established by the Arvadites, an ancient Phoenician people. It remained under their control for centuries until 300 BC, when it surrendered to Alexander the Great during his campaign through the region.

One of the most striking features is an ancient stadium, which—rather than being built with imported stone—was carved directly out of the ground. Today, this historically significant site sits within a prosperous farming area, where everyday life continues atop thousands of years of history.

What’s the Krak in Syria

TARTUS & LATAKIA

We made a brief stop in Tartus to explore the old Crusader-era buildings, many of which are now used as homes by local residents. At one point, when our driver briefly went missing, I genuinely thought I might end up knocking on a door to ask for a bed.

Tartus is also strategically significant, as it hosts Russia’s naval base in Syria, adding another layer of history and geopolitics to the city. From there, we continued north to Latakia, checking in at the Afamia Hotel to end the day.

What’s the Krak in Syria

MONEY

I received a message from the tour operator saying his bank had refused part of my payment — a total of £1,320 — claiming the notes were expired. After asking for a photo, it quickly became clear that the issue wasn’t expiration at all. The notes were Northern Irish banknotes 🤣

This kind of thing isn’t unusual. I’ve had the same problem in England, where Northern Irish notes are often misunderstood or refused despite being legal sterling. It was just another reminder that UK banknotes aren’t treated equally everywhere — even within the UK.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Plenty of action in this trip, it just wouldn’t be possible without a guide and driver!

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
152/229

NEXT UP

Heading to Aleppo, the one I’ve been waiting for!! Click to read.

This post was part of The Syrian Series. For episode 1 click here or to see the entire series click here.
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