KASHMIR SERIES, DAY 7 – 8
PAHALGAM – LEH
The terrorist attack of Pahalgam. But first, a grim reminder of where I actually was.
TOURISM HERE HAS TAKEN A HUGE HIT SINCE THE APRIL TERROR ATTACK, AND YOU CAN FEEL THE EMPTINESS EVERYWHERE.
My first stop in Pahalgam was the very park where the attack happened. You’d think militants targeted it because it lacked security, but the place is crawling with barracks. On my way up, I didn’t spot one other tourist, local or foreign.
DAY 7 – FROM TRAGEDY TO TRAVEL
After a quick street massage, I headed for the taxi stand. In many corners of the globe, shared taxis are a common thing and regardless of what you might think, there is always room for one more. I ended up wedged into the boot with three others — but at $0.10, what can I expect?
Eventually, I reached the same town as the night before and decided to look for a lift instead of another taxi. As has been the way here a kind local spotted me, asked what on earth I was doing, and offered help. Together we walked down to a road leading toward Srinagar. Out of shear luck a friend of his was driving past, and suddenly I had a ride.
What I didn’t expect was for the driver to tell his mother to get out of the front seat so I could sit there. I refused, but this was clearly non-negotiable. Typical Islamic hospitality — equal parts awkward equal parts heartwarming.
Along the way they shared stories about the region: this is where saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, grows. It’s also the heartland of cricket bat production, using willow trees imported from England centuries ago. And as if that wasn’t enough, before dropping me off at the crossroads, bought me some grilled corn as a parting gesture.
SRINAGAR – HOUSEBOATS & HISTORY
By evening I rolled into Srinagar, famous for its lakes and floating houses. These houseboats were originally a British loophole: they weren’t allowed to own land here, so they built their mansions on water instead.
It was also the most touristy spot I had been to since Amritsar but the vendors, all selling night stays, had a certain charm about them, something I hadn’t expected. I stayed at Best View Houseboat, which, despite being one of the largest, had just one other guest. It meant I had the peaceful waters almost entirely to myself — a rare treat in a country of almost 1.5 billion.
The plan was to gave myself a couple of days here to regroup and plan the next phase: motorbiking to India’s highest town. But even the tranquility of Srinagar doesn’t last forever.
The terrorist attack of Pahalgam
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The terrorist attack of Pahalgam
DAY 8 – FIGHTER JETS AT MIDNIGHT
Sleeping on a houseboat is usually bliss. You’re cut off from the traffic, the horns and the general chaos of India. But at 2 a.m., that serenity was shattered by the deafening roar of fighter jets skimming the lake.
I don’t exaggerate my feelings when I say, I thought war had broken out overnight. Turns out, the Indian army just likes to practice flyovers at the most ungodly hours imaginable. A reminder, if I needed one, of just how fragile peace is in Kashmir. Thanks for the wake up call though!
FINAL THOUGHTS
From the chilling quiet of Pahalgam’s park to the bizarre midnight roar of jets over Srinagar, Kashmir kept me on edge in ways I hadn’t expected. The generosity of strangers balanced out the heaviness of history, but the underlying tension is impossible to ignore.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
NEXT UP
Motorbiking toward the Himalayas, chasing altitude and the whispers of the Dalai Lama! Click to read.
This post is part of the Kashmir Series, for the entire series click here, or for episode 1 click here.
To see a different side of my trip, head to my socials: YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at the top of the page.
Question Time
- Would you still visit Pahalgam knowing its recent history of violence?
- Do you think Kashmir can balance its beauty with its conflict?
- How would you react if fighter jets roared over your bedroom at 2 a.m.?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
