THE AFGHAN SERIES, DAY 5, 6 & 7
KABUL – BAMIYAN – BAND-E-AMIR
Bamiyan, Qlukhi & The Buddhas. Today we head off 4 hours west towards the heart of the country to the ancient city of Bamiyan.
THE HARDEST MEAL TO MAKE
For most people Bamiyan is the place to visit and from my 3 days there I swear I have seen nothing like it.
WHERE IS BAMIYAN?
Bamiyan
After some photos with the local Talibs and the usual permit hunt, we headed to Dragon Valley near Bamiyan. This was my first time seeing rural life here. It’s always hard to witness, despite having seen it before.
Climbing out of Dara e Ajdahar, we drove along the ridge, enjoying incredible views of a place I nearly skipped.
Bamiyan, Qlukhi & The Buddhas
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL – Gulghula hotel (6.5/10)
- FOOD – Qlukhi
- ATTRACTIONS –
Russian Tanks
Dragon Valley
Buddhas
Blacksmith street
Butchers Street
City of Screams
Singing Man
Band-e-Amir
Rural town
Amazing gorges
Cave School
Red City - STEPS – 14,000, 12,600, 15,700
DRAGON VALLEY
A lot of places in Afghanistan come with ancient stories and tales passed on for 100s or 1000s of years. Legend says the volcanic rock atop the valley is a dragon that once terrorized the town below. After many failed attempts to kill the dragon, Ali, the prophet Muhammad’s son, struck it with his sword. This split the dragon, creating two spring pools that still seep tears today.
Bamiyan, Qlukhi & The Buddhas
WEATHER
We were meant to continue around Bamiyan today but the weather was horrendous and turning cold so instead we did something that does not require good weather, we made the famous Bamiyan BBQ, Qlukhi!
This process took four hours in the forest. I’d have reconsidered if I knew, but it was a new experience.
Bamiyan, Qlukhi & The Buddhas
QLUKHI
It’s essentially a dome-shaped mud oven. Despite the rain, we filled it with dry wood and prepped the food in foil. When ready and hot, collapse the oven onto the food, ensuring it’s well-covered to cook for 40 minutes.
In the end it was nothing short of delicious but anything less and I would have been disappointed considered the effort required. Credit goes to my driver, Ackmad Shaw, who worked tirelessly and did almost everything himself.
Bamiyan, Qlukhi & The Buddhas
RELATED READ: HAVING THE TAJ MAHAL ALL TO MYSELF
DAY 6 – THE BUDDHAS
Besides the Band-e-Amir NP, the reason for coming to Bamiyan was to see and learn about the incredible Buddhas that would have stood here for over 1400 years until the Taliban blew them up in 2001.
Built during Buddhism’s westward spread, they were the world’s largest free-standing Buddhas and significant Afghan symbols. Sadly, the Taliban leader deemed them un-Islamic, ordering their destruction in early 2001. Just 6 months later the U.S. would invade Afghanistan and begin their 20 years of occupation.
Even now, they are incredible. The larger one is fenced off, but you can climb the smaller Buddha for valley views.
FACTS ABOUT BAMIYAN BUDDHAS:
- The larger of the two statues, known as the “Great Buddha,” stood at a height of approximately 174 feet (53 meters), making it one of the tallest standing Buddha statues in the world at the time.
- The Bamiyan Buddhas were constructed in the 6th century CE, during the era of the Kushan Empire. They were part of a larger complex of Buddhist monastic caves and structures in the region.
- The Bamiyan Buddhas were made primarily of clay with wooden armatures, which were then covered with stucco for added stability and detail. The stucco was further adorned with intricate frescoes and decorative elements. The statues were created in the Gandhara style, which was influenced by both Greek and Indian artistic traditions.
- In 2001, the Taliban regime, which considered the statues to be idolatrous, intentionally destroyed the Bamiyan Buddhas using explosives. This act of cultural destruction was widely condemned by the international community.
BLACKSMITH & BUTCHERS STREET
After a quick bite we made our way through the Bazaars and markets of Bamiyan. The small section of the Blacksmith street where local traders manufacture everything from small knives to scythes and even giving me a go in the process. Its amazing to see the effort at which these guys work every single day.
In resource-poor countries, efficiency is crucial. This is evident in butcher shops, where every part of an animal is sold. Whether it be the oesophagus or the ball sack, people here eat the lot! The butchers were very friendly and always eager to share a chai with me.
CITY OF SCREAMS
Perched within the valley floor of Bamiyan is the ancient town of Shahre Gholghula, also known as “City of Screams.” It was here that the grandson of Genghis Khan was killed during their rampage of the west and Genghis vowed not to leave until everyone was killed and the entire city was flattened.
DAY 7 – BANDE AMIR
Another reason for our westward journey was to visit Bande Amir NP, an incredible landscape. It felt like the Swiss Alps in summer, a sight unlike any other. I had sure annoyed my driver by wanting to stop every 2 minutes for a photo but even he wasn’t sick of it and he lives just a few miles from Bamiyan.
WHERE IS BANDE AMIR NP?
Bande Amir NP
First things first, it was time to get into the swimming shorts and go for a dip and the water is as cold as it is blue but even thermal shock couldn’t distract me from its beauty.
RURAL TOWN
After a quick go on the pedalow we continued our drive around the NP for a few photos with the drone. It’s the only place quiet enough and far enough from the Talibs that make it safe enough to use.
We stopped in a remote town, where our guide’s cousin lived. As is Afghan custom, we were invited for chai in 35°C heat. The photos will show you this town was completely unique, like something out of a movie set.
CAVE SCHOOL
My guide, Mohammad Jan is not only one of the best guides I have had the pleasure of travelling with but is also a genuinely nice human. During my trip he regularly tips and helps those less fortunate than him and always goes the extra mile.
He has also been busy starting up and running a local school in Bamiyan. He arranges the funding from several different sources, one major funder being a previous guest and I had the pleasure to meet and talk to some 50 or so students.
THE PASSION OF THESE KIDS REALLY HUMBLED ME
Back home, kids can think of nothing worse than having to go to school but here there is nowhere else they would rather be. Some were even confident enough to stand and have a conversation with me, difficult considering they are still beginning to learn English.
RED CITY
Our final stop in Bamiyan was at the famous Red City, another fort to guard the eastern access of Bamiyan. Unfortauntely as is the way with a lot of this area, it was destroyed in 1221 by the one and only Ghengis Khan.
However at the top you can see why it was built here, it has the best 360 views of Bamiyan. It’s a deceiving walk to the top but worth every minute, just be sure to arrive before sunrise so you have plenty of time to enjoy the views.
During the soviet war it was also used by the Mujahideen to guard the town and help fight against the soviets, an anti aircraft gun still sits at the top of the mountain.
SUMMED UP….
- MVP – The driver making Qlukhi
- HIGHLIGHT – The landscape
- LOWLIGHT – First days weather
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective, and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube videos below.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Bamiyan has blown my mind, its beauty, its history and the people. Its incredible how welcoming and friendly they are considering what they local Hazaras have gone through.
NEXT UP
Time for a 12 hour road trip to explore the northern city of Mazar-I-Sharif but not before a Taliban commander conducted a very precise body search!! Click to read.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
159/229
This post was part of The Afghan Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
