THE MIDWEST AFRICAN SERIES, DAY 19, 20, 21 & 22
BISSAU – CAP SKIRRING – JANJANBUREH – BANJUL
Bissau, Casamance and Banjul. After a few drinks last night we were keen to get stuck into Bissau’s festival, before continuing the journey from Banjul to Bissau and onward through West Africa.
TURNS OUT THE FESTIVAL DOESN’T START UNTIL TOMORROW, THE SAME DAY WE LEAVE…
I have not heard much about it but I could see early on that people were in good spirits, seeing so many people walking around with smiles on their faces was a bit refreshing, not a normal occurrence in the previous capitals.
WHERE IS BISSAU?
Bissau
MARKET
To start the day, we walked around Bissau’s main market looking for anything out of the ordinary. All the markets in West Africa seem to sell tons of oranges, flip flops, and smartphones, but we did manage to find a local aphrodisiac in the form of a large bean called Cola, who knows if it works…
Bissau, Casamance and Banjul
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL –
Malaika Bissau (7)
Janjanbureh (6.5)
Tranquil Resort - ATTRACTIONS –
FESTIVAL
After visiting a local family for lunch, we headed to the festival, and everyone was in such good form. Everyone filled the streets, with families dressing up, kids playing football, and people simply enjoying the national holiday. But as the day passed, it soon became obvious that he festival organizers do not start the actual parades until tomorrow, which is an absolute gutter.
My guide from Casamance in southern Senegal seems to do nothing but chat with every woman he walks by, clearly a numbers man, but it does take 3 hours to walk 100 metres.
Bissau, Casamance and Banjul
FLAG….
- GREEN – This color represents Islam, progress, and hope. It reflects the nation’s religious heritage and the aspiration for growth and development.
- YELLOW – Signifies natural wealth, intellect, arts, and literature. It celebrates the country’s abundant resources and cultural richness.
- RED – Symbolizes sacrifice, life, and the determination of the Senegalese people to overcome challenges and thrive.
- GREEN FIVE-POINTED STAR – Represents unity and hope for a harmonious future.
DAY 20 – SENEGAL
This morning, we head to Casamance, the southern region of Senegal. I’ve heard a lot about this place, especially Cap Skirring which is a small beach town with a few bars and hotels, often compared to the laid-back feel of nightlife Guinea Bissau beaches, but with its own Senegalese twist.
Bissau, Casamance and Banjul
RELATED READ: PETROL AND FIRE AT MY FIRST FULL MOON PARTY
ELOUBALINE VILLAGE
We stopped first at a local village only accessible by boat. It’s an incredible little infrastructure they have with a small hospital, school, maternity clinic and of course a bar. Here, I tasted Palm wine again, likely from the same cup that 600 other villagers use. Tasting and smelling like soggy feet it has to be the worst tasting drink after Sambuca.
Bissau, Casamance and Banjul
FACTS ABOUT SENEGAL:
- Senegal, located in West Africa, has long been considered one of the region’s model democracies. It boasts a history of stable government and civilian rule.
- Some Senegalese taxi drivers attach horse, sheep, or cattle hair to their taxis for good luck. These tails, blessed by religious leaders, are believed to bring fortune.
- Senegal has a growing surf scene, and the influential 1966 surfing movie The Endless Summer was partially shot in Senegal.
CAP SKIRRING
There is nothing much to do here but head to the beach, which, although busy on a weekend, is rather nice. People come to chill, eat, and even play rugby. A night out here on the weekend is pretty good with the few bars playing live music. Expect to get a few advances. Don’t be put off by the walk down to the beach through a derelict hotel; it’s probably the least enticing entrance I have experienced at a beach. You can just imagine the smell.
Tonight we watched The Ivory Coast win the AFCON, which was good, but made me slightly frustrated that I wasn’t there. This part of Africa seems popular for older tourists, mainly women, to meet younger African men, which, for the record, is cool but in the beginning is quite the surprise.
ABOUT THE COUNTRY:
- LANGUAGE – French holds the status of the official language of Senegal. Wolof: The most widely spoken language for about 80% of the population.
- HELLO – “Salaam aleekum”
- HOW TO CHEERS – “Santé!”
- BEVERAGE OF CHOICE – Bissap, made from the hibiscus flower species known as Roselle.
- POPULAR SPORT – Football
- STAPLE DIET – Peanuts, couscous, white rice, sweet potatoes, lentils, black-eyed peas and various vegetables,
FLAG….
- GREEN – Stands for forests and agriculture.
- BLUE – Symbolizes the Gambia River, which is the country’s main geographical feature and the source of its name.
- RED – Represents the sun and the savanna.
- WHITE STRIPES IN BETWEEN BANDS – Denotes unity and peace.
BORDER
As always, the Senegal border was top-notch, no bribes, no delays, no issues. I only wish the others were half as easy. The Gambian side was also fairly easy, thanks to a little handshake with the narcotic department, which meant we didn’t have to wait an hour for our bags to be checked – the first time during my trip this would have happened.
WELCOME TO COUNTRY NUMBER 169
CHECKPOINT
However, it took just 5 minutes of driving until we were stopped by what can only be described as two rent-a-cops. One fella dressed in a police fancy dress outfit who didn’t seem to know what Burkina Faso is, which is akin to someone from Wales not knowing what Scotland is. He was quickly brushed aside whilst the other lady attempted to brandish her authority, asking for documents – nothing specific, just documents. Once she realised she didn’t have a clue what she was looking for, she then asked to see the boot. It was like a sketch show.
They try to create as much delay and inconvenience as possible to force us to pay a little something to hurry it on. However, once she realised she was getting fu*k all, she then straight up asked for her breakfast. I was fuming, actually for the first time, and turned around and signalled to Marlon to give her nothing.
DAY 22 – STONE CIRCLE
Finally, our last full day in West Africa! I say that not out of contempt for the region, but I cannot wait to get back to routine, food, and early mornings. On our way to Banjul, we stopped of at the Wassu Stone Circles, one of Gambia’s most important sites. These are one of over a thousand groups of megalithic stone circles found in Gambia and central Senegal, Spread across a region of around 12,000m2.
Each stone in this cemetery marks a burial, making it the largest concentration of stone circles in the world. These date back over 1,000 years and were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006.
BANJUL
After 3 weeks of sweat, borders, and boiled eggs, we finally arrived in the Serrekunda district of the capital and checked into Tranquil Resort. And after a quick walk through the local beach, we headed out to the area of Senegambia, where my guide continued his habit of trying to chat up every girl on the street.
This area was chill, but had the largest amount of tourists I have seen all trip. I would probably say there were more tourists here than locals. We toured around the various bars, including Magic bar and Time Inn (again expect advances) for a few drinks before crawling back at 3 am for tomorrow’s flight, bad idea.
INSIDER TIPS
- If you are travelling overland from Banjul to Bissau, start early in the morning. Border crossings can take longer than expected, and transport options are reduced significantly after sunset.
- When using the Banjul to Bissau bus, keep small cash handy for checkpoints and food stops, as ATMs are unreliable along the route.
- In coastal areas, especially around nightlife guinea Guinea-Bissau, weekends are the best time to experience live music and social gatherings, while weekdays remain quieter and more relaxed.
- Local markets are best visited early in the day, not just for better prices but also to avoid the intense afternoon heat.
- Accommodation options can fill quickly during festivals or weekends, so booking at least one night ahead is recommended, even in quieter towns.
FINAL THOUGHTS
That’s it. I’m not going to lie but I am shattered but was a decent few days to end the trip, a few drinks and nothing too intense. Ready for home and to recharge again.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
169/229
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Question Time
- Do you enjoy festivals when travelling?
- What is your favourite festival?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
