CAMPING IN VOLCANO PICO, PORTUGAL’S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN

THE AZORES SERIES, DAY 8&9

HORTA, FAIAL – PICO ISLAND

Camping in Volcano Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain. Today is the day; the day I have been waiting for and the day I have been dreading, climbing Mt Pico!

WITHOUT DOUBT THE TOP 3 WORST NIGHT’S SLEEP I’VE HAD

I only learned this was an option two weeks before arriving. Talk about lack of prep. I did five minutes on the step machine before getting bored, so I wasn’t totally unprepared!

FINALLY THE WEATHER COMES OUT

Anyway, after a great night sleep at Internacional Azores Boutique I woke up to a “wonder of a day!” Even if deep down I was hoping for the old cancellation email (the hike is very much weather dependant) it was going ahead regardless!

Pico is very difficult due to its stair-like gradient. A standard day hike is difficult, but adding 20kg of gear was even harder! Along with my camera, drone, and tripod, I carried food, water, a tent, a sleeping bag, and a blow-up mattress.

FERRY TO PICO

After a quick run (literally all I had time for) around Horta I got the 10:45 Atlantico over to Madalena. It’s impossible not to stare at Pico and wonder if you are doing the right thing, as I say I’m no hiker!

After arriving and getting another Ilha Verde rental car I checked into Casa do Cais. I realized the room I thought was reception was actually mine. It was insanely large for a backpacker!

Needing to get a move on I headed up to the mountain house (Casa da Montanha) where I met Steffi from Hominis Natura and as soon as we received our GPS devices we set off!

TIME

There are 47 posts in total, and we stopped at six. 😩 It was slow and steady from here! If you aren’t a hiker and want to test yourself, the best advice I can give is to take short steps often, it’s the only way. Unless you’re a pro and fancy beating the 1hr 40 mins return time set by one of the guides. By 1hr 40 I was only half way and out of my guts but in the end it was all good and happy to hear the time of 3hr 20mins was well below the average, with a killer weight on my shoulders too. Don’t get me wrong there were times I was literally biting my lip not to call out to Steffi for a stop, but I do not like the thought of giving in!

CAMP

Pico’s peak has grown over the years. Our camp is in the main crater, once Pico’s highest point. That was until pequena pico (small peak) was formed and now stretches another 70metres beyond the crater.

After setting up camp and releasing the shoulders we made a beeline for the craters edge and then up to the summit. What a relief to climb without the additional weight 🥵

SUNSET AT THE SUMMIT

Reaching the summit was satisfying, knowing the effort it took and the deep places I had to dig into. 😆

As the weather had been poor over the past week (finally a stroke of luck) there had been a lot of cancellations moved onto today. There were about 12 of us on the summit, and more were expected for the sunrise hike.

Camping in Volcano Pico Portugal’s highest mountain

The day might be clear but the wind is strong so very few photos in general, it’s an effort in itself even take the phone out for a few quick snaps.

SUNRISE

After a 4:45 alarm call, we made our way back to the top again for sunrise. Most dislike early wake-ups and another hike up, but it was worth it. We were first up and chose the best seats.

The sunrise was expectantly busy and we could see the droves of headlights making their way up the mountain behind us.

The horizon wasn’t clear, delaying the sunrise. But the result was worth it, especially since the peak is often cloudy. I might not have been lucky in Flores but I was getting all the luck I needed here.

Camping in Volcano Pico Portugal’s highest mountain

PRIVATE GUIDE

For something like this I always try and arrange a private guide (if it cant be done alone) for a few reasons;

1. I can go at my own pace up and down. In groups you are only as fast as the slowest group member.
2. I had the flexibility of doing my own thing and staying longer on the summit in the morning.

This allowed me to wait out the crowds at the top and to have the peak to myself. Being up there surrounded by 25 others just isn’t the same.

After giving ourselves another 20mins we made our way back to Base Camp, had breakfast, packed and began our descent.

Camping in Volcano Pico Portugal’s highest mountain

COMPETITIVE NATURE

I told Steffi I was competitive and didn’t want unnecessary stops. She triggered this urge before the descent.

Let’s go so we can catch up with the other groups.

I honestly wasn’t sure if she was joking but not wanting to affect our pace I let the comment fly like she meant it. Catching up with the groups seemed easy until we spent 20 minutes on the summit, 10 minutes on breakfast, and 15 minutes packing. And this doesn’t even consider carrying a 20kg backpack As the other hikers were just there for the day, all they had was a day pack with water and snacks. So, all in all the closest group was already 40 minutes ahead, the others much longer!

Camping in Volcano Pico Portugal’s highest mountain

THE REAL CHALLENGE LAY AHEAD

I heard going down is harder, which worried me, but I doubted it could be tougher than yesterday.

How long does it take Steffi?

4hrs normally, 3hrs 30mins in a good day but from what I saw yesterday I think we can do it in 3hrs.

3hrs?? I thought. It could well be a good time but sure doesn’t sound impressive so I was keen to start strong.

THE DESCENT WAS A JOY

The pace was good, I kept glued to Steffi heels and only had to stop to use her belt to stop my trousers from falling off, what a gentleman I am! From there it wasn’t long before we could see the first group, which got me thinking,

Ok next group,

Steffi laughed and was keen to oblige!

The further we go on the better I felt, and every opportunity of a rest was turned down, and with all the groups now passed, I had my sights now set on a time.

What time are we looking at Steffi?

I think we can do 2hrs 30mins.

Nah fuck this, still doesn’t sound good enough I thought.

Can we do under 2hours” I replied, keen to run down this mountain if I had to.

Steffi smiled and happily responded,“OK lets try.” I think she was keen for a good time too.

We pressed on, avoiding the last groups going up, and the car park came into view. The descent was a joy, unlike the climb, because the hardest part was over!

AGAIN?

After booking this trip I was never really sure it was the right thing to do. Don’t get me wrong I know I could climb it but with no prep and it being one of the more difficult treks I knew it would be a real test. But at the summit and during my descent it was 100% worth it, and probably something I should do more of.

PICO

After a quick trip to another foggy landmark, Lagoa do Capitão (the benefit of Pico being above the clouds) it was back to the guesthouse for a wash and a chill (2hr nap – unplanned!). It was then off to watch the sunset in Madalena, what a way to end the day!

Lucky weather as although the following day was clear, the peak was covered.

FINAL THOUGHTS

No doubt that the day was made all the worthwhile by the weather!

NEXT UP

Parking revenge at Pico’s Whaling Museum! Click to read.

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
141/229

This post is part of The Azores Series, click to explore the series or for episode 1, click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.