PAKGHAN SERIES, DAY 9 – 12
MULTAN – LAHORE
Transgenders of Pakistan. I have never been so glad to leave a city in all my life.
SORRY YOU CAN’T LEAVE MULTAN
It’s a real shame for this city, as I am sure it offers heaps, but it’s just not worth the hassle.
MORE ISSUES IN MULTAN
Finally glad to leave this city. I couldn’t believe it when the hotel manager said we couldn’t. Apparently, the roads were closed due to some protests by Imran Khan supporters. However, I told the manager that if I have to walk, I will do so if there isn’t an escort here in 30minutes then I’m away.
Lo and behold, an escort arrived, albeit it’s late, but I didn’t care at this point, we wanted out.
Transgenders of Pakistan
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL – RAMADA 9/10
LAHORE
Eventually, we arrived in Lahore and checked into the Ramada, a proper hotel that I could confidently say my dad was able to properly enjoy and recover. In fairness, he would stay anywhere, but when he’s effectively backpacking through one of the most insane countries in the world, I want to make sure he has some form of balance.
Transgenders of Pakistan
BORDER CEREMONY
The final offering for Dad was the famous Wagah border ceremony that takes place at the Pakistan-India border. It’s a daily event of an intense, choreographed display of patriotism, with soldiers from both sides marching, high-stepping, and eventually lowering their national flags at sunset.
Transgenders of Pakistan
DAY 10
Today was a non-event besides dropping my dad off at the airport and then getting caught up on emails. Long trips now required a full day here and there to catch up.
RELATED READ: THE MOST STRESSFUL TRAVEL DAY EVER
DAY 11, CHAI AND EROTIC BOOKS
Today was as wild as it gets. This morning I met Kausar who I have had dealings for years. He originally helped me organize a trip to Afghanistan and was now helping with parts of my Pakistan travel diary.
After getting a bite to eat, we headed outside of the city and to a local fair, but this is no ordinary fair. The first thing we watched was the Wall of Death, where a fella on a motorbike drives at speed on a circular wall with no hands. The risk here is wild because, for sure, the wall is hardly maintained, and all it takes is one thing to go wrong.
FACTS ABOUT LAHORE:
- Lahore’s old city, known as the “Walled City,” has 13 historic gates, many dating back to the Mughal era, with secret underground tunnels and ancient bazaars hidden within its walls.
- Lahore is considered the “Lollywood” of Pakistan, being the country’s hub for film production and a major center for art, music, and theater.
- Lahore hosts the annual Shandur Polo Festival, where polo is played on the world’s highest polo ground, set at 12,200 feet above sea level.
TRANSGENDERS OF LAHORE
What most of you will be shocked about is that there is a large transgender community in Pakistan, particularly within Lahore. Some of whom travel around Pakistan with the fair. Often, before some of the events starts they come out and dance for tips. It’s wild because I didn’t expect them to get provocative, but no one else thought anything of it when they started to clutch their t*ts.
ABOUT LAHORE:
- LANGUAGE: Urdu and Punjabi (Punjabi is widely spoken, while Urdu is the national language)
- HELLO: “Assalam-o-Alaikum” (a common greeting meaning “Peace be upon you”)
- HOW TO CHEERS: “Jashn Manao!” or simply raise a glass and say “Mubarak Ho!” (meaning “Celebrate!” or “Congratulations!”)
- BEVERAGE OF CHOICE: Lassi (a traditional yogurt-based drink, often sweet or salty)
- POPULAR SPORT: Cricket (it’s a national obsession, but field hockey and kabaddi are also popular)
- STAPLE DIET: Roti or Naan with a variety of curries (such as Chicken Karahi, Nihari, and Biryani)
KABBADI
Wrestling is famous throughout Pakistan; they have created some of the world’s best, and although Kabbadi is more of a slap fest, there’s still a bit of throwing about.
There were an incredible number of people here to watch, and I was lucky enough to get close access to the competitors, so much so that I almost got taken out by a ruckus.
The rules aren’t easy to understand, but players slap and throw each other until one withdraws and is forced backwards.
BRAVADO
There’s a ton of bravado, which adds to the atmosphere, and also a prize giving at the end of each round. There were two village leaders who would gift money to both winners, which basically turned into a d*ck swinging competition as to who could award the most amount of money. I even got gifted 700rupees.
DAY 12, MUD WRESTLING
After visiting the local fish market in the morning, we then headed to the mud wrestling school to watch a few bouts. The name of the game is to flip your opponent over and put them on their back. Locals of all ages and sizes come here to learn the game that has been around for centuries.
STREET DOCTOR, DENTIST & BONE SETTER
I’ve seen one or two things that shock me, but this afternoon was definitely up there. As many of the Pakistani population are relatively low paid, the costs of what we would consider basic needs can often be out of reach. So as a result, many unqualified health care professionals have set up stalls at the side of the road to meet the growing need for medical work from locals. This includes dentists who do fillings and tooth removal, doctors who fix broken bones, and orthodontists who straighten teeth with wires. It was hard not to feel the pain of each patient we saw.
STREET SHAVE
Having grown considerable bumfluff on my face, it was time to get the famous Pakistan street shave, all for the modest price of 20 cents! As you would probably imagine from someone who owns this little, the fella who owns the stall eats, works, and sleeps right here on the street. Probably one of my best shaves, unbelievable for someone who earns so little.
MY ATTEMPT AT MUD WRESTLING
I thought the guys at this morning’s wrestling school were big, they have nothing on these lot. But anyway, I was invited to take part in preparing the ring, warming up, and then eventually having a few bouts with some of the wrestlers who no doubt went easy on me.
Finally, the day and my time in Lahore ended in Haveli restaurant, without doubt the best food of the trip so far.
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube videos below.
Insider Tips for Visiting Lahore
After spending a few days exploring the city, here are a few tips that might make your trip to Lahore smoother and more enjoyable:
1. Visit the Wagah Border Early
The Wagah Border ceremony is extremely popular. Arriving early helps you secure a good viewing spot and avoid the massive crowds that gather closer to sunset.
2. Try Local Street Food (But Choose Busy Stalls)
Lahore is famous for its street food culture. Look for busy stalls where locals are lining up, as high turnover usually means fresher food.
3. Respect Local Cultural Norms
Pakistan is culturally conservative in many areas. Dress modestly, especially when visiting mosques or traditional neighborhoods, and always ask before taking photos of people.
4. Explore the Local Fairs
If you get the chance to visit a traveling fair outside the city, go for it. These fairs often showcase traditional performances, wrestling matches, and sometimes even appearances from the transgender community that forms part of Pakistan’s historic Khwaja Sira culture.
5. Carry Cash
Many small vendors, barbers, and street stalls only accept cash. Having small denominations of Pakistani rupees makes everyday transactions much easier.
6. Plan a Proper Lahore Food Stop
Restaurants like Haveli offer not only excellent food but also incredible views of the historic Badshahi Mosque. It’s one of the best places in the city to end a long day of exploring.
FINAL THOUGHTS
What an incredible few days in Lahore. Yes, it had pollution issues, but this is so far my favourite city in Pakistan or maybe even the subcontinent.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
NEXT UP
Islamabad and Osama Bin Laden’s old compound in Abbottabad!! Click to read.
This post is part of the Pakghan Series. For the entire series, click here, or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip, head to my social channels: YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at the top of the page.
Question Time
- Would you like to visit a street dentist here in Lahore?
- How about mud wrestling? Fancy giving it a go?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
