THE DISPUTED SERIES, DAY 1&2
GEORGIA
Wine at Georgian Immigration. After a terrible flight schedule (no blame, as I booked it all), I landed in Georgia via Bucharest for a few hours. Setting off for an 11 am flight that arrives at 5:30 am isn’t ideal. But what happened next at Tbilisi Airport would turn out to be the most memorable first impression of any country I’ve visited.
WHY DOES GEORGIA GIFT WINE AT IMMIGRATION?
I didn’t find out until later that Georgia’s tourism board has made it official policy to gift wine bottles to arriving tourists at major airports like Tbilisi. It’s a brilliant strategy, really. You arrive jet-lagged, slightly disoriented, and suddenly you’re holding a bottle of local wine. You’re already thinking about Georgian wine culture before you’ve even cleared customs. It works.
What makes this even more interesting is that Georgia is home to an 8,000-year winemaking heritage—the world’s oldest continuous wine culture. The country didn’t just invent wine; it invented the entire concept of fermenting grapes in vessels and storing them. Every bottle I’d encounter over the next few days would carry that history.
WHERE IS GEORGIA?
STILL AS BEAUTIFUL AS BEFORE
I got the 10pence airport bus and eventually arrived in Tbilisi. It was dark, but it was as stunning as I remembered it from my visit here in 2017.
At night, all the city’s landmarks are lit up and, because it’s fairly small, you can see most of them from almost anywhere.
Even carrying a bottle of wine through the streets felt completely normal here.
GEORGIAN WINE CULTURE EXPLAINED (From What I’ve Seen)
I didn’t come to Georgia as a wine expert, but I’ve learned quickly that this country takes it seriously.
Georgia is widely considered the world’s oldest wine-producing country, with over 8,000 years of winemaking history. That’s not marketing that’s backed by archaeology and even recognised by UNESCO.
Most traditional Georgian wine is made in qvevri, massive clay pots buried underground. The grapes ferment naturally inside them, skins and all.
The taste is completely different from anything I’d had in Europe.
Earthier. Stronger. Less polished. More real.
WHAT IS FUGITIVE WINE?
Fugitive wine refers to small-batch, often homemade wine produced outside large commercial systems. In Georgia, many families still produce wine in their homes using ancestral techniques.
Fugitive wine is:
- Not mass-exported
- Often unlabelled
- Shared locally or with guests
- A major part of rural Georgian culture
If you’re offered a random bottle by a local, it’s probably fugitive wine.
EXPLORING TBILISI: FROM OLD TOWN TO THE GONDOLA
ENVOY HOSTEL
Like last time, I stayed at Envoy Hostel. It’s close to Narikala Fortress and costs only £ 8 per night with breakfast.
I was 10 hours early for check-in, so I chilled until sunrise and went out for food with an American who had arrived the day before. He was planning on staying for a year because Georgia is so cheap.
We ended up talking about how ridiculous it was that my first Georgian wine bottle came from an airport official.
FIGHTING THE URGE TO SLEEP
After eating at the same place I visited in 2017, I decided against a nap and walked around to explore. I had to make the most of today as I was going to Abkhazia tomorrow, a disputed region just north of Georgia.
The city is really stunning, and I recommend that anyone go, but it can be hard to get direct flights unless you’re coming from one of the major cities in Europe.
THE GONDOLA
I took the gondola up to the fortress for the best views of Tbilisi and to stay awake. You get attention from younger locals here, like the Azerbaijani who bumped into me. He was travelling to France for his flight and walked the rest of the city with me. Locals are friendly and curious about tourists. Someone asked if I’m a tourist and wanted to talk all day, which you don’t get at home.
NARIKALA FORTRESS
Standing at the viewpoint of Narikala Fortress, I was reminded of why I fell in love with this city the first time. The old town sprawls out below you, the Mtkvari River winds through the valley, and mountains frame the whole scene. It’s the kind of view that makes you understand why people stay in Tbilisi for years.
LEGVTAKHEVI WATERFALL
After visiting King Vakhtang’s statue, I used my drone before nightfall and walked to Legvtakhevi Waterfall, though ‘waterfall’ is an overstatement!
The gorge is impressive, and it’s unbelievable how Georgians use every bit of real estate.
Looking forward to some sleep for the first time in a few days
Looking forward to some sleep for the first time in a few days.
NEW TOWN & LEGVTAKHEVI WATERFALL
My walk took me out of the old town and into the city centre, then to the public service hall, which, if I’m being frank, wasn’t worth checking out. The real beauty and character were in the old town, and it had it in abundance.
After visiting King Vakhtang’s statue (the legendary founder of Tbilisi), I used my drone before nightfall and walked to Legvtakhevi Waterfall, though ‘waterfall’ is an overstatement! The gorge is impressive, though, and it’s unbelievable how Georgians use every bit of real estate. Even in this narrow canyon, there are houses built into the cliff face, shops, and restaurants clinging to the edge. It’s chaos and beauty in equal measure.
Looking forward to some sleep for the first time in a few days.
FINAL THOUGHTS
It’s good to be back, having been very impressed and surprised by Georgia the first time around. This trip has reminded me why travel isn’t just about checking boxes on a map—it’s about moments like receiving a bottle of wine from an immigration officer and realising there’s an entire 8,000-year story behind it.
The bottle I received at Tbilisi Airport sits with me as a memory, but also as a gateway to understanding Georgian culture in a way that no guidebook could have explained. It’s bold, unexpected, and deeply hospitable—just like Georgia itself.
FAQs
What is so special about Georgian wine?
Georgia is the world’s oldest wine culture—8,000 years of unbroken tradition, not centuries like France. I discovered that the Qvevri method produces extraordinary complexity: wild fermentation in buried earthenware vessels creates wines that are completely different from those produced by modern techniques. Saperavi grapes, unique teinturier varieties with red flesh, yield dark, powerful wines with an 8,000-year heritage. UNESCO recognised this ancient winemaking tradition as an intangible cultural heritage. Its authenticity materialised in every bottle.
Is Georgian wine expensive?
Absolutely not—it’s the best value globally. I bought premium Saperavi in Tbilisi for 40 GEL ($15 USD). That same quality wine costs £20-25 ($25-32) in London or $30-40 in New York. Georgian wine averages $2.98 per litre for export. Lower production costs, minimal infrastructure needs, and emerging-market pricing create 50-70% savings versus European equivalents. Even with export markups, it remains an unbeatable value for serious wine enthusiasts.
How much Georgian wine can I actually take home?
Georgia allows 4 litres of duty-free alcohol when departing. The UK permits 9 litres of wine with an ABV below 22% (Saperavi qualifies at 12-13%), the USA 1 litre, India 2 litres, Canada 1.5 litres, and Australia 1 litre. Pack 3 bottles carefully in checked luggage surrounded by clothes. Declare honestly at customs. Even exceeding limits costs minimal duty—far cheaper than buying Georgian wine at home. Personal consumption only.
NEXT UP
12 months early for a tour to Abkhazia! Click to read.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
138/229
This is episode 1 of The Disputed Series. Click here to see all episodes
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
Question Time
- Have you been to Georgia?
- Where did you visit?
- Did you enjoy the food?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
