5 MILLION PEOPLE AT IJTEMA BISHAW11 min read

BANGLA SERIES, DAY 6

DHAKA

5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw. I have been laying off this visit to Bangladesh for almost a year and it’s all been due to the Ijtema Bishaw, a huge gathering of over 5 million people on the banks of the River Turag.

FOR YEARS I HAVE WANTED TO RIDE ON THE ROOF OF A TRAIN

Getting information on this was virtually impossible, I have seen zero information from tourists or bloggers online, which might mean we are in for proper authentic experience.

WHERE IS TONGI?

Tongi

GETTING DRESSED

Our first port of call was to look the part so we headed to one of the many stalls that’s setup here as part of the event. I decided on a tasty white linen number and the biggest hat I could find – which was still too small for my big nugget. People were incredibly welcoming and curious but I was more interested in the local that got caught stealing from one of the stalls.

Most of these people have been here for 3 days and today is the main prayer day before heading home. Our plan was to take a dander around the event, speak to some locals then get the chaotic train back to Dhaka.

5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw

FACILITIES

There was everything here you needed for 3 days, from food, washing facilities and even toothbrushes; small sticks that many locals here use on a daily basis. If anything I think it done more damage than good. The sleeping arrangements were wild, with everyone sleeping side by side, probably making it the biggest sleepover in the world, imagine that at Glastonbury…

This entire area has been made for this event, with the huge open area, washing facilities and several covered areas, allowing the numbers that it attracts each year. It’s probably the only open space in the entire city.

5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw

VIEWPOINT

We headed up to the flyover to get a view just before the final prayer. Even here it’s hard to get an idea of scale so I sourced a drone shot from online (credit – thephototravel.net). As the day goes you are continually approached by the many locals keen to hear your story, where you’re from and why you are here.

At 12pm the final prayer starts and the hustle and bustle begins to fade. We made a beeline for the train, keen to get a spot at the front before it leaves in an hour or so.

Photo by: ThePhotoTravel.net

5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw

TRAIN

For years I have wanted to ride on the roof of a train after seeing the many clips and images of locals in the sub-continent doing the same. Today we had front row seats of our trip to Dhaka, alongside many locals who seemed just as excited as I did.

As we moved through the city locals came towards the tracks to shout and cheer, some nearly choking when they noticed the white tourist at the front. Those on the roof would then throw sweets and snacks at any kids nearby, what a moment!!

5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw

ROOF

After 30 minutes at the front I took the next stop as an opportunity to jump onto the roof and experience the journey from a different perspective. I tried standing until I was rocked off my feet, this one was dodgy to say the least. The roof was packed, with plenty of locals wondering why a foreigner would leave the comfort of their own country to do this, but again each and every one of them were incredible. Nothing can explain the hospitality of people here.

RIVER DIVER

To end the day we made out to the Buriganga. Besides many things I know it’s full of sh*te, but this place always seems to draw me back for one last sniff. However there is one man who goes one step further and spends several days a week crawling along the river bed in search for scrap. I can only imagine what this man might find but we were going to find out.

EQUIPMENT

I’ve done many dives, always with well-maintained, high-quality equipment. His, however, was unlike anything I’d ever seen. His mask resembled a World War II gas mask, while a compressor continuously fed oxygen into his tank.

But that was the least of his concerns. The Buriganga teems with industrial waste from garment factories, boat oils, and Dhaka’s sewage, which flows directly in. No marine life survives here, and that’s probably for the best—fishing boats would only add to the chaos.

THE DIVE

A man in shorts and a t-shirt jumps into the world’s most polluted river—no gloves, no suit, just grit. In 3-5 minutes, he grabs a crate and an empty plastic bottle, both nearly worthless. On a normal day, he dives for five hours, hoping to collect enough metals to make it worthwhile.

FINAL THOUGHTS

As far as days go that had to be one of the most unique I’ve had. I am beginning to develop a love for this country and can already see myself returning within a year or so.

SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229

NEXT UP

The brothel village of Bangladesh and the hardest life story of them all!! Click to read.

This post is part of the Bangla Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.

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