THE DISPUTED SERIES, DAY 6
Summary:
I travelled through Artsakh/Nagorno-Karabakh in winter, journeying from Armenia into a disputed region of dramatic mountain landscapes, ancient monasteries, and complex borders. Along the way, I visited sacred sites, rode the world’s longest cable car, and explored Stepanakert, reflecting on the striking contrast between natural beauty, political tension, and everyday life in the region.
ARMENIA – ARTSAKH / NOGORNO KARABAKH
Getting to Karabakh is possible by renting a car or arranging a driver. Although fairly easy to drive yourself, I decided to take a driver for two reasons.
The drive was long, and there was no way I’d have the energy. I can do a lot of my travelling, take numerous flights and buses, and get my sleep when I can, but driving can be like taking a sleeping pill for me sometimes. It also means I can get things done while driving, saving me valuable time!
WHERE IS ARTSAKH / NOGORNO KARABAKH?
YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHERE TO LOOK
Getting to Karabakh was a breeze, but I knew Armenia had a lot to offer outside of Yerevan, and I wanted to see more of it on the way. So, trying to find out where to go, which sites to visit and how to get there was becoming a nightmare. Leaving the responsibility to the agent was a surefire way to visit the best sites.
MONASTERIES
If I’m honest, I wasn’t overly excited about the itinerary when I read monastery after monastery, but how wrong I was. The drive itself was incredible on its own, but the monasteries were undoubtedly the most impressive I’ve seen.
Khor Virap, I thought, was a good start; it is a sanctuary located on top of a small hill surrounded by low-lying land.
Next up was Noravank, and the drive through the gorge leading up to the church was stunning. I have been really lucky with the weather. Despite it being the middle of winter, there was nothing but blue sky!
TATEV MONASTERY & CABLE CAR
Believe it or not, the world’s longest cable car is right here in Armenia! It’s possible to drive to the end point, but it would take 40 minutes, and it also creates a unique experience travelling over the mountain ridges.
I tend to get fed up after the first few, but even this was something special. Each of the monasteries is located on a strategic viewpoint on the mountainside, offering each an incredible view across the valleys.
THE BORDER
Having an EU passport, I was issued a visa on arrival. The process was simple, and as I seemed to be the only person at the border, it was also very quick. You are given a form to fill in, and the guards will issue you a visa by way of a small printed piece of paper. This will ensure you don’t encounter problems if you have to enter Azerbaijan with the same passport.
KARABAKH BACKGROUND
The Republic of Artsakh was a breakaway state in the South Caucasus (1991–2023), which was internationally recognised as part of Azerbaijan but de facto controlled by ethnic Armenians. They even had a passport, but the Artsakh passport was not recognised by any member state of the United Nations. This mountainous region is also known as Nagorno-Karabakh.
Since then, Azerbaijan has not issued visas to Armenians or anyone who has entered Karabakh, as they feel they are showing their support for the occupation. It’s fairly complicated.
I am by no means an expert, so feel free to fill me in on what you believe and let me know if I am wrong.
The roads and landscape all change drastically from one mountain to another. One minute you could be driving through barren, dry land, and within five minutes be surrounded by nothing but snow.
STEPANAKERT
There are no operational civilian flights to Stepanakert Airport as it has been closed to air traffic since the early 1990s. You have to travel through Azerbaijan.
Later that evening, we arrived at Stepanakert, the capital of Karabakh, and I was immediately impressed. I should have learned long ago not to judge before actually arriving, but sometimes you can’t help it. From what I saw, the city seemed nicer than Yerevan, and they certainly don’t skimp on the Christmas lights.
ACCOMMODATION
I checked into Hotel Tirun, which I turned out to be the only person staying in. Rooms are basic with an en-suite, and breakfast is included. Complimentary 1980s Nike flip-flops are standard throughout.
EATING
I was recommended the Ureni restaurant, just a 2-minute walk from the hotel. I was impressed with the food, but less so with the manager, who felt the need to smoke the entire time I was there. Go for the veal kebab if you are unsure about the menu.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I really wasn’t expecting to see some of the things I did on the drive, and in hindsight, I can say it was the right decision to go for a driver.
NEXT UP
Driving back to Yerevan for my last night in Armenia before heading off to Moldova again!
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
139/229
This post is part of The Disputed Series that started with WINE AT GEORGIAN IMMIGRATION.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my Instagram highlights.
Question Time
- Have you been to Karabakh, what was your experience like?
- What did you do?
- What was your favourite experience?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
