THE TIBET SERIES, DAY 7, 8 & 9
LHASA – YAMDROK LAKE – DEZHONG HOT SPRING
My most horrifying travel experience. Today, we went outside Lhasa to visit the sacred Yamdrok Lake and the loneliest monk in the world.
FIRST TIME I HAVE EVER SEEN SEVERAL DEAD BODIES, NEVER MIND BEING EATEN BY VULTURES
The drive is about 3 hours to 4,700m. Consequently, this shows the difference between Europe and Asia. For example, Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak, is just under 5,000m, yet Asia has roads at that altitude!
WHERE IS YAMDROK LAKE?
Yamdrok Lake
TIBETAN MASTIFFS
On our way up the mountain there are various laybys used by the tourists to take photos of the incredible views and stop for a bite at the food stalls. At many of them however are the famous Tibetan Mastiffs, known to be one of the fiercest dogs in the world!
These dogs though seemed to be more docile and relaxed and were available for some photos. Bear in mind, however, this would be a stark contrast to my experience in a few days time.
My most horrifying travel experience
DAILY INFO….
- HOTEL –
Shambhala Palace Hotel
Some random place - ATTRACTIONS –
Monastery at Yamdrok Lake
Dezhong Hot Springs
Drigung Monastery Sky Burial
LONELIEST MONK
After a few hours driving we arrived at the temple of the loneliest monk. We saw one or two locals, but nothing else stood between Lhasa and here. I think the nearest town is over 1 hour away!
We had a quick walk around and then got chatting to the senior who gave us an idea of his daily routine. He spends much of his day in the monastery, waiting to greet locals and answer questions. He has been doing the same for over 30 years!! What amazing commitment and dedication! Unfortunately like a lot of Tibet it wasn’t possible to take photos.
HOT SPRINGS
This morning we headed back out to Lhasa to explore the hot springs, around 3 hours outside of the city. I’ll be honest, I expected something very remote with hardly any people; however, I arrived at something like naked rush hour in London’s underground! There were tons of people, so many that there was no way you could access the springs without accidently brushing passed a few obstacles 🍆… It turns out it was the start of their annual holiday and for this reason we decided to give it a miss, what a story that could have been!
My most horrifying travel experience
RELATED READ: A NAKED SWEDE AND ANGKOR WAT
DAY 8 –
This was the most shocking experience I have ever had during my travels. For the record, I fully respect the culture and the wishes of the local people, I can appreciate what is going on and why but watching the sky burial was very difficult. At the same time it was also important to watch with respect because many of the local people are here to watch over their loved ones, something that would be much harder than from my perspective.
My most horrifying travel experience
SKY BURIAL
How do I explain this? A sky burial is a Tibetan funerary practice where the dead person’s body is placed on a mountaintop to be eaten by scavenging birds, in this case vultures. This ritual reflects the Buddhist belief in the transitory nature of life and the importance of returning the body to nature, allowing it to serve as nourishment for other living beings. People consider the ceremony an act of generosity and compassion, symbolizing the soul’s release and transition into the next life. It’s conducted with reverence and respect, usually in the presence of monks and family members.
FACTS ABOUT SKY BURIAL:
- Sky burial is a funeral practice where the deceased is placed on a mountaintop or other high place to be exposed to the elements and scavenging birds.
- In Tibetan Buddhism, sky burial is seen as a compassionate act of giving back to nature. They leave the body for vultures to consume, symbolizing the return of the remains to the sky, earth, and water.
- Sky burial serves practical purposes in regions where burial or cremation may be difficult due to factors like permafrost or scarcity of wood for cremation as it doesn’t require land for burial or fuel for cremation.
VULTURES
At the beginning I was pulled into a group to help push the vultures away so the butchers could begin their work. I’m not sure I have done anything more frightening, than telling 150 blood thirsty vultures to get the fuck back or they will get a size 10 to the back of the head. It was just 5 minutes in when a few vultures made a break for it and the rest followed, I now found myself in the middle of a vulture stampede, a crazy experience.
The vultures quickly made their way down to the bodies which were already opened up by the butchers and absolutely devoured one of the bodies in no time. Then the call came for us to push the vultures back again. I thought they were having a laugh but after enough swinging a kicking they began to move back and it allowed the butchers enough time to finish their work.
Photo sourced online
DANGEROUS
Once the vultures were released it was another stampede and they devoured the bodies in minutes with brutal efficiency. At this point, with just bones in the mix it became dangerous and everyone was told to leave. The vultures often throw bones around, and if you’re close, they might mistake your leg for another vulture competing for food.
Photos sourced online
FINAL THOUGHTS
Really not sure what to expect from these past few days but one thing I do know is that, that is what travelling is all about!!
NEXT UP
We continue day 8 with our homestay as we carry sacks of Yak sh*t!!! Click to read.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
170/229
This post is part of The Tibetan Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To watch the video of my trip, head to my highlights on my Instagram.
