BANGLA SERIES, DAY 6
DHAKA
5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw. I have been laying off this visit to Bangladesh for almost a year and it’s all been due to the Ijtema Bishaw, a huge gathering of over 5 million people on the banks of the River Turag.
FOR YEARS I HAVE WANTED TO RIDE ON THE ROOF OF A TRAIN
Getting information on this was virtually impossible. I have seen zero information from tourists or bloggers online, which might mean we are in for a proper, authentic experience.
WHERE IS TONGI?
Tongi is a major township, located in the Gazipur District within the Dhaka Division of Bangladesh. It lies immediately north of Dhaka and is part of the Greater Dhaka metropolitan area. It is connected to the city by road and railway networks.
Tongi
GETTING DRESSED
Our first port of call was to look the part, so we headed to one of the many stalls that were set up here as part of the event. I decided on a tasty white linen number and the biggest hat I could find, which was still too small for my big nugget. People were incredibly welcoming and curious, but I was more interested in the local who got caught stealing from one of the stalls.
Most of these people have been here for 3 days, and today is the main prayer day before heading home. Our plan was to take a dander around the event, speak to some locals, then get the chaotic train back to Dhaka.
5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw
FACTS ABOUT IJTEMA BISHAW:
- Massive Gathering: Bishwa Ijtema, with an attendance of 5 million attendees annually, is the world’s second-largest Islamic congregation and secures its place on the world’s biggest ijtema list.
- Global Participation: Devotees from over 150 countries, including India, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, and the USA, convene in Tongi, Bangladesh, to engage in prayers and sermons.
- Phased Organization: Due to its vast attendance, the event has been divided into two phases since 2011 to better accommodate participants
FACILITIES
There was everything here you needed for 3 days, from food, washing facilities and even toothbrushes; small sticks that many locals here use on a daily basis. If anything, I think it has done more damage than good. The sleeping arrangements were wild, with everyone sleeping side by side, probably making it the biggest sleepover in the world. Imagine that at Glastonbury…
This entire area has been made for this event, with the huge open area, washing facilities and several covered areas, allowing the numbers that it attracts each year. It’s probably the only open space in the entire city.
5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw
FACTS ABOUT WHY IJTEMA BISHAW IS IN BANGLADESH:
- Origins in Chittagong: The inaugural Bishwa Ijtema was held in 1954 in Chittagong, Bangladesh, marking the beginning of this significant Islamic congregation.
- Government Support: Recognizing its growing importance, the Bangladeshi government allocated a permanent venue along the Turag River in 1967, facilitating the event’s expansion.
- Central Role of Tablighi Jamaat: The Tablighi Jamaat movement, which has a strong presence in Bangladesh, organizes the Ijtema, underscoring the country’s pivotal role in global Islamic missionary activities.
- Sustained Growth and Development: The event has grown from 15,000-20,000 attendees in 1954 to over 5 million in recent years.
- Ideal Physical Setting: The event takes place in a five-square-kilometre area in Tongi, an outer suburb north of Dhaka, on the banks of the River Turag. The location offers the necessary open space to accommodate millions of devotees while being accessible to Dhaka’s international airport.
VIEWPOINT
We headed up to the flyover to get a view just before the final prayer. Even here, it’s hard to get an idea of scale, so I sourced a drone shot from online (credit – thephototravel.net). As the day goes on, you are continually approached by the many locals keen to hear your story, where you’re from and why you are here.
At 12 pm, the final prayer starts, and the hustle and bustle begins to fade. We made a beeline for the train, keen to get a spot at the front before it leaves in an hour or so.
Photo by: ThePhotoTravel.net
5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw
TRAIN
For years, I have wanted to ride on the roof of a train after seeing the many clips and images of locals in the sub-continent doing the same. Today we had front row seats of our trip to Dhaka, alongside many locals who seemed just as excited as I did.
As we moved through the city, locals came towards the tracks to shout and cheer, some nearly choking when they noticed the white tourist at the front. Those on the roof would then throw sweets and snacks at any kids nearby, what a moment!!
5 Million People at Ijtema Bishaw
RELATED READ: THE BIGGEST DERBY IN THE WORLD
ROOF
After 30 minutes at the front, I took the next stop as an opportunity to jump onto the roof and experience the journey from a different perspective. I tried standing until I was rocked off my feet; this one was dodgy to say the least. The roof was packed, with plenty of locals wondering why a foreigner would leave the comfort of their own country to do this, but again, each and every one of them was incredible. Nothing can explain the hospitality of the people here.
RIVER DIVER
To end the day, we made our way to the Buriganga. Besides many things, I know it’s full of sh*te, but this place always seems to draw me back for one last sniff. However, there is one man who goes one step further and spends several days a week crawling along the riverbed in search of scrap. I can only imagine what this man might find, but we were going to find out.
EQUIPMENT
I’ve done many dives, always with well-maintained, high-quality equipment. His, however, was unlike anything I’d ever seen. His mask resembled a World War II gas mask, while a compressor continuously fed oxygen into his tank.
But that was the least of his concerns. The Buriganga teems with industrial waste from garment factories, boat oils, and Dhaka’s sewage, which flows directly in. No marine life survives here, and that’s probably for the best fishing boats would only add to the chaos.
THE DIVE
A man in shorts and a t-shirt jumps into the world’s most polluted river—no gloves, no suit, just grit. In 3-5 minutes, he grabs a crate and an empty plastic bottle, both nearly worthless. On a normal day, he dives for five hours, hoping to collect enough metals to make it worthwhile.
TODAY’S YOUTUBE VIDEOS
If you want to see today from a different perspective and catch a few different stories from the front row, then check out today’s YouTube videos below.
FINAL THOUGHTS
As far as days go, that had to be one of the most unique I’ve had. I am beginning to develop a love for this country and can already see myself returning within a year or so.
SAFE TRAVELS, DS x
172/229
FAQs
When is Bishwa Ijtema held?
Bishwa Ijtema takes place in the city of Tongi, Bangladesh. It is often held in two or three phases in late January or early February. In 2026, the Bishwa Ijtema is scheduled to begin on January 2.
How do I get to Bishwa Ijtema?
To get to Bishwa Ijtema, travel to Tongi, Bangladesh, near the Turag River, 3 km north of Dhaka’s airport. Use trains, buses, rickshaws, or walk, but expect traffic and crowded conditions.
What should I wear?
You should wear comfortable, loose-fitting, and modest clothing for the Bishwa Ijtema.
Are there any accommodations or places to stay?
Thousands of tents are set up by the local community and government to accommodate visitors. People often sleep in these temporary shelters for the duration of the event. It’s a good idea to bring your own bedding, such as a mat or blanket, and be prepared for basic conditions.
How long does the Ijtema last?
Ijtema usually lasts for three days, from Friday to Sunday. It starts with the opening sermon (Ambayan) after the Jumua prayers and ends with the closing prayer (Akheri Munajat).
NEXT UP
The brothel village of Bangladesh and the hardest life story of them all!! Click to read.
This post is part of the Bangla Series, for the entire series click here or for episode 1, click here.
To see a different side of my trip head to my social channels; YouTube, Instagram & TikTok. Links at top of the page.
Question Time
- Would you enjoy visiting these unique events?
- How much would it take to get you into the Buriganga?
Let me know in the comments below . . .
